When Gucci sacked their former Creative Director, Frida Giannini, Alessandro Michele, the new Creative Director, had only a few weeks to turn around a completely new men’s collection to be shown in Milan that January.
What materialised, Men’s AW15, was a Wes Anderson like fantasy of quirky accessories, vintage looking furs and pussy bow blouses for men. A radical and welcome departure from Giannini’s Gucci look, it took a while to digest and fully appreciate.
Now the dust has settled, it feels fresh while heavily referencing the past. It’s like the most beautiful and eccentric dress up box and all part of the new unisex vision many brands are pushing. (Doubles your market!)
For a bit of background, Alessandro Michele, 42, studied at Accademia di Costume e di Moda in Rome and joined Fendi as Senior Accessories Designer.
He moved to Gucci’s Design Office in 2002, so he worked under Tom Ford, assuming growing responsibilities within the creative department until he was promoted to the role of Associate to the Creative Director Frida Giannini in May 2011.
In September 2014, he took on the additional responsibility as Creative Director of Richard Ginori, the renowned Italian fine porcelain brand that Gucci acquired in June 2013.
Gucci has realised that in order for people to buy designer clothes they need to offer something that you can’t find anywhere else. We can get choice and fit on the high-street, so luxury brands need to offer difference and craftsmanship that reeks of quality and distinctiveness in order to pay their increasingly ridiculous prices.
There is a lot in the new Gucci men’s collection that would make TheChicGeek's AW15 Hot List. The astrakhan coats look too expensive to be listed online so I’ve gone for one of the bowed sleeveless shirts. This eccentric Gucci collection has even got me wanting one of the new antiqued GG logo belts.
Burberry always know when to drop items to suit the weather. This lightweight, quilted jacket is beautiful both inside and out. Perfect as an outer layer now and then as a mid layer - pictured - for when the cold weather kicks in.
The biggest problem I had with Converse was how could something so simple be so uncomfortable. I remember buying a pair of special John Varvatos Converse and within a few hours I was hobbling home, never to be worn again.
Left - The four colour ways of the new Chuck II
Anyway, Converse, now owned by Nike, has released the Chuck II: a brand new style that boasts the same exterior of the iconic Chuck Taylor All Star – including the easily recognisable rubber toe cap, white foxing detail and statement All Star patch – whilst incorporating features and benefits to deliver a comfortable, versatile and premium sneaker, "as informed by the consumer" - so it wasn’t just me who found them to be uncomfortable!
The Chuck II is available in black, white, red and navy colour ways – £55 for low tops and £60 for high tops.
Below - The trainer interior for comfort
Youth, beautiful youth, seems to sum up the scene at Zalando HQ. Everywhere you look, young people: sitting outside in the sun on bench tables chatting, inside large, open-plan offices developing new product and organising deliveries and logistics and vast teams styling and producing the content for the website in cavernous studio spaces.
Left - One of Zalando's many buildings based around East Berlin
Zalando feels like a microcosm of hipster Berlin: the youth of Europe drawn together over the passion of creativity, fashion and design in a mix of tattoos, coloured hair and piercings. But, these young people aren’t restricted to simply the creation side of the business, they run all the way through to senior management and is a reflection of the company’s age having only started in 2008.
In the space of 7 years Zalando has gone from speculative start-up to a billion dollar business. The biggest fashion e-tailer that nobody, well, those of us in the UK anyway, has heard of, it has grown to be the biggest fashion platform in Europe with sales of over €2.2 billion, last year. Just to give it some context, ASOS turned over £975 million in 2014.
While British brands such as ASOS and Topshop looked towards America, Australia and China for growth, Zalando was quietly focusing itself and expanding into 15 European countries and tailoring its offering accordingly.
Right - For the recent Berlin Fashion Week, Zalando opened a 'Fashion House' to showcase product, hold talks and celebrate Berlin as a fashion centre
Based in Berlin, business is conducted in English, so as to unify all 15 markets, making Zalando feel more like a international business based in Berlin rather than a German fashion company. It now sells over 1500 brands with a staggering 150,000 products in markets ranging from Austria to the UK.
Selling luxury diffusion lines, high-street brands and now, a whole collection of own labels, developed for specific customer categories, Zalando is aiming to have everything covered.
I’m here, during Berlin Fashion Week, to see inside the company and how it has developed. I first experienced Zalando’s website a few years ago, and it felt, at the time, like just another European website selling third party brands in not a particularly inspiring way. Fast forward a few years and, now, Zalando is the one of the most important European customers to some of Britain's best and biggest brands and the entry to markets many don’t have retail outlets in or websites directed to.
Dressed, today, in American Apparel T-shirt, Element cuffed trousers and Nike trainers, Florian Jodl, VP Menswear, is in charge of the menswear side of Zalando.
“When I joined - 3 years ago - Zalando was making the transition from start-up to large company. We’re, now, the largest fashion platform in Europe and we cover pretty much the whole of Europe”.
Left - Florian Jodl, VP Menswear, Zalando
What’s made Zalando so successful in what is a tough market to crack?
“Our founding team believed in the e-commerce trend at the right point in time. The drivers of the company that made it successful was the marketing, the logistics proposition - free and easy returns, we have more than 20 different payment methods, large assortment and strong relationships with some of the best brands in the world”. he says.
“How those things came together allowed the company to grow so fast. We focused on the fashion market and invested in our fashion proposition from a content perspective. The main part of the business is being a fashion retailer, but we are adding more and more additional services to the consumer and to the brands we work with. For example, we recently launched, ‘Zalon’, which is a curated shopping service: a stylist picks a selection, then you get a package and keep what you like. We don’t run it in-house, we’ve created a platform where stylists can log on to and work independently on a commission basis.”
Where many international retailers have found appealing to so many different markets difficult, and have often come unstuck, Zalando seems to have flourished.
“We have a very strong localisation mindset. For example, in Italy you have to have cash on delivery payments, in Germany, you have to allow for invoice payments. We have been successful in all these different markets by tweaking our brand marketing and efficient end structures, but, if you over emphasise it you have an extremely complex system”, says Jodl.
The most popular men’s brands are currently Nike, adidas, Converse, Reebok and Levi’s.
“Some men are still very focussed on brands, and there is a group of consumers that just want to be inspired. So, outfits work quite well, for us, particularly for men. We have a function, now, where you can buy everything the model is wearing.
“We see the men’s business accelerating even faster than the rest. When you think of buying fashion, online, it is an attractive proposition for the stereotypical, average guy. You don’t have to go downtown, be in a crowded store, you can order a nice selection of stuff and what you like, you keep. It just took men longer to take the step and try and, now, they’ve tried it, you can see it really picking up,” says Jodl.
Right - Each individual item is shot and physically moved along the creative line to be retouched, described and uploaded onto the Zalando site
I’m taken inside an old factory building in East Berlin that houses the studio where Zalando shoots all the images for the website. Not allowed to take pictures, it is the modern e-tailer factory: a conveyor belt of styling, shooting, retouching, describing and uploading.
Zalando has recently developed its own range of labels seeing gaps in the market and also higher margins. Menswear features in labels such ‘Kiomi', ‘Your Turn’, ‘Pier One’, ‘Brooklyn’s Own’ and unisex shoe brand called ‘Zign'. The own brands are currently expanding as a percentage of the business with many collections, now, running into hundreds of pieces.
Zalando, while having shipped to the UK for many years, is now turning its attention to us, and particularly menswear, seeing a fashion hungry and lucrative market.
“One key thing we need to do is build a more focussed assortment as the UK is a very developed and strong fashion market, in the past we probably missed some of the key local brands”, he says.
For Berlin Fashion Week, Zalando curated a ‘Fashion House’ in the centre of Berlin to not only display their product but to inspire and put the flag in the ground for Berlin as a fashion capital and authority. (Zalando recently bought the fashion trade show Bread & Butter, which up until a few seasons ago was one of the biggest street and casual wear trade shows in the world).
Left - Inside Zalando's 'Fashion House', a pop-up in Mitte during the recent Berlin Fashion Week
They understand that they have to make Berlin relevant in order for them to be taken seriously as a fashion authority. The key to Zalando’s success is its expertise in the markets it operates in. While not only appealing to its customers, it also appeals to other retailers and brands that want the ‘in’ to these potentially lucrative European markets.
As different parts of Europe come out of recession, Zalando will only increase its dominance and it wouldn’t surprise me if it wasn’t snapped up by somebody like Amazon, or anybody who wants a large and developed slice of the European fashion market.
Online retailers understand that its their own product which will offer a USP and also better returns. It will be interesting to see whether Zalando's own menswear brands will be picked up by the British male in what is a very competitive and price sensitive market. Watch this space.
H&M has opened a pop-up store, today, 23rd July. in the Old Truman Brewery, on Dray Walk, Brick Lane to celebrate their Divided collection. Open for six weeks and stocking the latest fashion trends from H&M’s men's Divided collection.
"We always strive to excite and surprise our customers, and by launching a pop-up shop in East London we have the opportunity to offer H&M’s Divided collection to such a diverse range of shoppers and fashion-lovers in an innovative and fun way. East London has a very different vibe to any of our other locations throughout the UK, which makes this pop-up launch so exciting and in the perfect location to present the collection” says Carlos Duarte, Country Manager H&M UK and Ireland.
Over the six weeks there will be numerous events and activities inside the pop-up for customers to enjoy. Whether it’s catching DJ sets from the latest turn-table talents, late night lock-ins, innovation workshops or checking out hotly tipped artists and playlists in the music pods.
The pop-up is 1100 square feet in size and the 'design-lead' interior includes neon and linear lighting, an indoor wall mural, raw concrete features and scaffold elements.
Opening hours 11am-7pm, Monday-Sunday
With forest green being one of the hottest colours of this autumn/winter, this timepiece caught TheChicGeek's attention. Italian shoe specialists, Ferragamo, first introduced watches in 2007, and this particular one, part of the Ferragamo 1898 Collection, commemorates the year Salvatore Ferragamo, the founder, was born.
Left - Ferragamo 1898 Sports - £940
This handsome 43 mm 1898 Diver features a colourful aluminum unidirectional rotating bezel inscribed with a 60-minute scale. The ruggedly masculine three-hand configuration is powered by a precision Swiss made quartz movement and is water resistant to 660 feet. The easy-to-read dial includes a convenient date window at 3 o’clock and the Ferragamo logo at 12 o’clock.
TheChicGeek says, "The NATO strap adds an element of sports and a contemporary touch to this bold yet masculine style and will certainly leave admirers as green as the watch."
The last of the cities to show, Paris puts the full stop on the SS16 menswear season. Here is TheChicGeek's lowdown on the trends from Paris:
If these are the souvenirs then we'd love to see the gift shop! Think Ryan Gosling in Drive.
From Left - Valentino, Louis Vuitton, Saint Laurent, Dries van Noten
Short sleeved shirts and T-shirts from the softest of skins.
From Left - Valentino, Louis Vuitton, Hermès
You won't be able to afford to dropout if you buy one of these, but at least people will think you're rich enough to!
From Left - Valentino, Saint Laurent
The Jacket Coat
Too big to be a jacket, too small to be a coat... introducing the jacket coat.
From Left - Paul Smith, Raf Simons, Dior Homme
Denim gains its place on the catwalk and Paris follows Milan with the commercial trend in anything designer denim.
From Left - Givenchy, Saint Laurent, Valentino, Valentino, Berluti
The 'Green Man' always heralded spring and 2016 is no different.
From Left - Berluti, Hermès, Berluti