luomo vogue closing time inc wallpaper death of magazines Jocks Nerds

News in that the most famous pure fashion men’s publication is to close. The Italian publication, L’Uomo Vogue’s last issue will appear in December. With a readership said to be 300,000, which is large within the men’s market, it seems a strange move by publisher Condé Nast, if this is the true figure.

Left - David Beckham shot by David Bailey. The Italian men's fashion magazine, L'Uomo Vogue is to close

I think what it signifies is not the change in consumers, but advertisers. This is all about advertisers changing their spend and while consumers have been disappearing in numbers since the beginning of the 21st century, the brands still felt confident about advertising in magazines and keeping them profitable. Until now.

L’Uomo Vogue’s closure is a reflection of the downsizing of Milan Men’s Fashion Week. What used to be busy with big name ‘superbrands' has seen many downsize to presentations or merge their men’s shows with their women’s, and thus showing later in the calendar. You’re not going to spend lots of money promoting something that is not a priority or is contracting.

These were the brands big enough to buy the back covers or a couple of pages just inside the front, and this was where the profit is or was for publishers.

Many luxury fashion companies, especially the Italian family run ones, have been slow to get with digital due to the fact many of those in charge didn’t understand it or want to understand it. They’re idea of luxury wasn’t the internet and they like too much control. 

As budgets have been cut and also the delayed investment in digital sapping funds, L’Uomo Vogue is an example of the swingeing cuts the men’s industry has been facing. Italy is a powerhouse of Italian brands and even they are ‘adjusting’ to the future. Armani has reduced the number of labels, Dolce & Gabbana shelved D&G, even the recent big money maker, Gucci, now show their men’s in with their women’s show.

Also said to be closing is the independently published, Jocks & Nerds. The UK quarterly title, established in 2010, known for it’s workwear and vintage aesthetic, is sending its final issue to bed. There’s never been a good time to be an independent publisher, but now is particularly tough. I think fashion moving towards something more sporty and less ‘heritage’ may have also been a factor.

In other news, Time Inc., publisher of Wallpaper*, is moving to E14. Yes, me neither! I had to Google it, even though I’ve lived in London my whole life. It’s Mudchute, yes, Mudchute. There’s nothing wrong with Mudchute on the Isle of Dogs, but talking to a PR the other day, they said their courier doesn't even go that far. Times are tough, but are they really that tough?

It feels like the change in media is speeding up and the majority of magazines and publishers seem to be down to the bare bones. There isn’t much left to cut back on, but it’s a surprise a title like L’Uomo Vogue has folded before others. Watch this space.

Thursday, 03 August 2017 10:20

Hot List The All In One 70s Knit

1970s Reissues Knitwear Menswear Fred Perry

So many brands are simply remaking their archive, and why not, when it looks this good. We all know how I feel about Fila Vintage, but I first noticed this Fred Perry number at Pitti Uomo in January and then Berlin after. At first, I thought it was a display of vintage, but it's even better when you realise you can buy it. It’s part of their ‘Reissues’ collection and is designed to look like two layered knitwear pieces. The pageboy haircut is optional!

Left & Below - Fred Perry - Reissues Layered Turtle Neck Jumper - £145

1970s Reissues Knitwear Menswear Fred Perry retro vintage

Wednesday, 02 August 2017 14:53

Menswear Must-Have The Bum Bag

Bum bags menswear must have AW17 Jared Leto

The bum bag or fanny pack, call it what you will, has been on the cusp of style acceptance recently. Teetering on the brink, it finally came thru this season. YAS! Now, it feels right. It could be all the 90s sportswear or its practicality, but from designer to high-street to online we’re seeing the renaissance of this hands free solution.

Left - Jared Leto Guccifying his bum bag

Bum bags menswear must have AW17 Jared LetoIt's perfect for festivals or when you want some extra security. You can wear it two ways: the classic around the waist or, like the kids, across the body. 

Left - Louis Vuitton - Géronimos - £775

Below - Streetstyle cross body inspiration 

Bum bags menswear must have AW17 Jared Leto

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bum bags menswear must have AW17 Jared Leto

Left - Weekday - Nylon Bumbag - £20 from ASOS

Bum bags menswear must have AW17 Jared Leto

Left - Herschel - Khaki Orange Cross Body Bag - £45 from Topman

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

Bum bags menswear must have AW17 Jared LetoFar Left - Eastpak - Springer Bonded Blue - £22

Bum bags menswear must have AW17 Jared Leto

Left - Jack Russell - £305

Below - Supreme X Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton AW17

Bum bags menswear must have AW17 Jared Leto

Autumn Winter Menswear Must Have Rugby Shirt Joules

Welcome the new season with a wardrobe refresh and update your basics with Joules' new menswear collection. TheChicGeek picks the 5 pieces you need to see you through the next fews months and how to wear them:

1. The Rugby Shirt

Strangely, thanks to footballer, David Beckham, the rugby shirt has seen a return. Perfect for our new dressed-down smart, the collar and long sleeves give it a formality while the sports origin makes it an easy dressing option.

This handsome navy rugby shirt in soft cotton slub-jersey is a blank canvas and works under a jacket or coat with jeans or chinos.

Left - Parkside Jersey Rugby Shirt - £39.95

Autumn Winter Menswear Must Have Boots Joules

2. The Solid Boot

As British as puddles and puddings, the sturdy boot is a hardwearing and trusted addition to your A/W wardrobe. Crafted from tan-coloured leather, the classic broguing and contrasting natural sole follows the tradition of the best British boots.

Wear with dark blue jeans either turned up to show off the full boot or over the top.

Left - Barnes Lace-Up Boots - £110

Autumn Winter Menswear Must Have Hoodie Joules

 

 

3. The Sloppy Joe

Perfect for those Sundays vegging out, waiting for the roast to cook, this Sloppy Joe hoodie will become your sofa-surfing favourite.

The incredibly soft cotton mix sweatshirt has a cross-over hooded neck and a front kangaroo pocket. 

Go for a size larger and wear oversized.

Left - Healey Hooded Sweatshirt - £59.95

Autumn Winter Menswear Must Have Mustard Trousers Joules

4. The Coloured Trouser

This pair of cotton jeans-style trousers certainly cuts the mustard in this bold hue. Slim, but not too tight you can roll the hem or leave them au naturel. If anybody asks they’re ‘Crème anglaise’!

Pair with a shirt for something more formal and a knit for lazier days.

Left - 5 Pocket Coloured Trousers - £59.95

Autumn Winter Menswear Must Have Stag Socks Joules

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5. The Final Touch

With the Glorious Twelfth just around the corner, our attention turns to the great outdoors and its wildlife. These intarsia stag socks are perfect to get you out of your style rut - pardon the pun! - and are made with bamboo which makes them hypoallergenic and thermo-regulating.

These would add personality to a suit or are perfect for those country walks and will add some colour to your sock drawer.

Left - Brilliant Stag Bamboo Socks - £6.95

 

Calvin Klein Collection 205W39NYC red trousers

The label of the season, Calvin Klein Collection, has been renamed CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC. I’ve tried Googling it, but I don't know what it means either.

Anyway, these new red trousers struck a cord. Continuing the Wes Anderson take on fashion, the bold red and contrasting purple Tuxedo stripe continues the trend in these types of sports-influenced trousers. They continue to look fresh and cool especially with this unusual purple contrast.

Left & Below - CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC - Grosgrain-Trimmed Wool-Twill Trousers -£620 from MRPORTER.COM

Calvin Klein Collection 205W39NYC red trousers