Toby Rundle, Senior Stylist at Jo Hansford
How To Get Great Hair
A clean scalp is essential – no flaking or dandruff. There are numerous products on the market to help cure or aid these problems. If you have a flaky or dry scalp, use a nutritious shampoo like Kérastase Bain Satin. If you have an itchy, flaky scalp or dandruff, use Kérastase Bain Gommage. In both cases, Kérastase Lait Vital can be massage in to the scalp to moisturise after shampooing. If either of these systems persist – take professional advice. Remember guys; rinse the hair very well to get all of the shampoo and conditioner out.
The same applies with greasy scalps- regular shampooing with a suitable shampoo will help to alleviate this problem.
If you have persistent scalp problems, take advice from your hairdresser or in extreme cases, a tricologist or doctor. Scalp problems can be caused by too much product used in the hair or not shampooing the product out sufficiently
If you use a lot or products such as gels and waxes etc, it is a good idea to shampoo them out daily, normally one light shampoo in the shower will do. But – with waxes or very heavy products, shampoo can be applied to the hair before the water and massaged in well, and then add warm water and lather. Sometimes a second shampoo is necessary.
For guys that are worried about losing their hair – I'm sorry – but baldness is quite a common issue in men and it's hereditary so you can blame your parents! If you are experiencing this problem, you just need to accept it – keep your hair cut short and neat, and go with it.
If you are lucky enough to have a clear scalp and good hair but you are starting to go grey, things can be done! You can subtly cover a few stray greys with a vegetable colour or a technique we use at Jo Hansford called a smudge, which is longer lasting and a very effective covering on a more permanent basis. If time is not a problem, and your hair is short, high and lowlights are the way forward! But take advice from the colourist in your salon. Grey roots and a definite dark line is not a good look. There are products in your local chemist but still take advice from a professional.
Now that we are past all the major problems we can move on to Styling!
Wear something that suits, following fashion is cool, but have your own image and look. Wear a style that suits you and your hair. Find a product you can work with and do not be embarrassed to go for a new look. Men tend to follow the female trend and our female clients like to have a style they can change, something casual in the day time and a change of image for a party or night out.
Situated on Mayfair's fashionable Mount Street, Jo Hansford is the leading hair colour salon in the U.K. and is renowned for the creation of the perfect hair colour and expert colour correction.
When Jo opened her specialist colour salon in 1993, her team consisted of just eight staff. Today, Jo Hansford boasts a team of over forty highly skilled colourists, stylists and assistants, all personally trained by Jo herself.
Truefitt & Hill shows us how to get the perfect shave with their tips and extensive knowledge.
The key to a perfect shave is to prepare your skin, if possible shave during or after a hot shower. The heat and moisture helps to soften the beard and prepare the skin for the shave.
2. Apply a Pre Shave Oil
Designed to protect the skin from the razor blade, it softens the whiskers of the beard and helps the razor blade glide smoothly, reducing irritation and nourishing the skin. Work a little oil into the face and beard before applying shaving cream.
3. Apply Shaving Cream
Using a shaving brush helps to create a rich lather and lift each individual whisker, coating the whiskers with shaving cream and helping to give the smoothest shave possible.
Shave with or across the grain of your beard, and not against it. Shaving against the grain is the main cause for irritation and razor burn. Rinse the razor regularly and use a good quality blade remembering to replace the blade often. A dull blade is also a common cause for razor burn and irritation.
After shaving, rinse your face with cold water to close the pores of the skin. Pat the skin dry and apply a soothing and moisturizing aftershave balm.
Truefitt & Hill is the world's oldest barbershop with over 200 years of experience. In 1805, William Francis Truefitt opened his first Gentlemen's Barber Shop at 2 Cross-Lane, Long Acre London. In 1811 he moved the business to 40 Old Bond Street and established himself as "Court Hair Cutter" and "Court Head Dresser" where, along with his sole employee, his brother Peter, he was soon to become Wigmaker, by Royal Appointment to His Majesty, King George III. In 1911 Edwin Hill & Co. set up a barber shop at 23 Old Bond Street, and it was to this address H.P. Truefit (Francis Truefitt's nephew) moved in 1935 to form Truefitt & Hill. They moved to their present location in St James's Street in 1994.
They are currently barbers and Royal Warrant holders to H.R.H. The Duke of Edinburgh and have international outposts in Chicago, Toronto and Las Vegas.
A well fitting suit of classical proportion in simple English cloth forms the foundation of a good wardrobe. An English Bespoke tailor will cut you a good suit. If your suit is going to last you twenty years it is best to avoid fad or fashion.
Patrick Grant of Norton & Sons
How to choose a suit
I would advise a gentleman to follow three simple rules.
1. Few suits but good suits.
2. Favour simple suiting but splendid Linen
3. Always let ones clothes be correct, never too formal nor too casual, never too worn nor too new.
I favour a single breasted two button jacket with a notched Lapel, straight pockets and side vents, and a higher cut flat fronted trouser. If your finances allow start with the following; dark navy flannel, dark charcoal flannel, navy Worsted, charcoal worsted, Glenurquhart check worsted, navy cable stripe worsted. For warmer days add a couple of fresco's, again in navy and charcoal.
Armed with his simple suits a gentleman can set forth to create his look with shirtings and silks as simply or as flamboyantly as his tastes allow. It is with his linens that an Englishman expresses his sense of dress. Ones shirts must be well cut and should be classically proportioned. Experiment until you find a collar shape that works. A good shirt maker will assist in your choice of cut, and help you guide you through the many thousand Cotton shirtings and tie silks that he will offer.
And one should neither overdress nor underdress. Dress for the occasion and avoid looking contrived. According to the wonderful George Frazier 'No well-dressed man's clothes should look either old or new'. I wear a dinner suit of my grandfathers, cut in 1936, which age and wear has rendered perfect. The Norton & Son's suit that I am wearing today I have worn at least one hundred times before. It took about fifty wears before it really Felt worn in. Purchasers of inexpensive suits will never experience this joy.
Norton & Sons is one of Savile Row's finest Bespoke Tailors. Established in 1821, the house made its name tailoring to the young and sporting amongst Europe's elite.
The firm gained eminence making sharply cut suits for rugged and robust gentlemen, such as Lord Mountbatten and the young Winston Churchill, for whom the firm made everything from dinner suits to racing silks. Lord Carnavon wore a Norton suit when he discovered Tutankhamun's tomb.
In recent years Norton & Sons has worked on clothing collections for British menswear Designer of the Year Kim Jones, British Designer of the Year Giles Deacon, young London designers Richard Nicoll, House of Holland, Christopher Kane, and New York's Rag & Bone.
Norton & Sons still hand cuts and hand sews every garment on Savile Row, using the traditional techniques perfected over centuries of tailoring in London.
John Smedley shows us how to care for your knitwear.
Quality comes at a certain price, but does not necessarily need to be preciously treated. With a degree of care and attention all John Smedley (Look at the care instructions on other knitwear brands)garments can be machine washed and will continue to look good and last well for many years to come.Top tips for John Smedley's merino wool knitwear:
1.Remove surface soiling by gentle brushing, this will help the stain later on.
Treat stains immediately with cold water, blot dry with a clean cloth - never paper.
3. Air wool after wearing by laying the garment flat , as this helps to get rid of odours.
4. Always try to store lightweight wool folded and allow breathing space.
5. Clean your garments before storing, the dreaded moths, seemingly love top quality fibres, but they are actually feeding off the body oils and dirt, not the actual fibre. Use natural remedies to combat moth attack- the old ones are the best and smell the best- cloves, lavender, rosemary and thyme, orange peel and cedar, can all help deter the munchers. Never put these in direct contact with the knitwear, tie them in a gauze bag and hang in your cupboard or wardrobe. It is worth noting that as we have ditched our carpets in favour of floor boards, the moths no longer have carpets to attack, so are more inclined towards your clothes.
6. Try to rest your wool garment between wearing, (if you can bear to!), 24 hours allows the natural fibres to spring back and preserve its natural resilience.
7. Turn the garment inside out to protect the outer surface.
8. 30 degrees C is all you need on a reduced cycle. Merino wool has natural self cleaning properties, so you don't have to wash so often and all of this in turn helps the environment.
9. Use a mild, non-biological detergent. Biological enzymes eat away the natural fibres, causing long term damage.
10. Dry flat, or I prefer a good line dry on a windy day, the fibre almost returns to its natural habitat!
11. Gentle, warm iron with steam should just return the shape- though again straight from the washing line no ironing is necessary.
John Smedley's Sea Island Cotton needs less precautions. A beautiful, long fibre staple length, with a luxurious handle can be machine washed.
As we dye all of our colours at the mill in Derbyshire, the colours stay true and fixed. Still wash dark and lights separately, keep the temperatures low and never hang black and dark colours on the washing line in bright sunshine. Natural sunshine is the best natural bleaching agent- so perfect to keep your whites white!
For stain s and soiling, cold soak prior to washing. This loosens the dirt and prevents it fixing permanently with hot water.
A British Insititution, John Smedley has been manufacturing the finest knitwear since 1784. Still proudly Made in England at their factory at Lea Mills in Matlock, Derbyshire, the family owned company today, exports to over 35 countries worldwide.
The body panels and sleeves of the wool and cotton garments are linked together by hand, stitch for stitch, to create the impeccable neat seams which remain one of the hallmarks of real luxury knitwear.
After knitting, the garments are scoured or washed using water from John Smedley's three springs - this is a crucial stage in the manufacturing process giving the garments their characteristic 'soft handle'. Additional processes render the garments shrink resistant and machine washable, a unique feature considering such delicate techniques are applied.
Ideally if this is your first time growing a beard I would recommend a visit to a barber for advice. However, if you are unable to get to one, here are a few tips to help ensure that you get off to the right start.
Senior Barber at Gentlemen's Tonic, Imad Khaireddin
Whilst everyone experiences hair growth at different rates, you should typically allow the hair to grow in length for around 4-6 days. Ensure that your electric clipper has graded numbers and a half setting to allow for some flexibility in choosing your preferred length. The grades refer to the length of the hair in millimeters, for example grade 1 means the hair will be cut to between 1 -3 millimeters in length where as grade 2 represents between 2-6 millimeters in length.
Do make certain that you start with a dry beard. If you're unsure how short you would like your beard to be, it is best to start trimming with a higher clipper grade. You can then repeat the process with a lower grade if you wish. In cases where the thickness of the beard differs on various parts of the face it is best to use a short grade on the thicker areas such as the chin or moustache area, and a longer grade on the thinner areas to achieve an even finish.
When you are happy with the length, take some time tidying up your beard. Set your clipper on 0 and remove the clipper guard if you have been using one. The teeth should be closed. Tilting your head back slightly, use the flat side of your clipper to create a line from left to right above the Adam's apple. Use your own discretion but try not to take the line too high or too low. To create a natural finish to the beard, trim the neck area with the clippers on a grade lower than you used to trim the bulk of the beard. You can put a small amount of shave oil into the beard when finished to ensure it looks shiny and healthy.
Gentlemen's Tonic is a traditional yet contemporary barber in the heart of Mayfair. Combining traditional barber shop treatments such as wet shaves and hair cutting with spa treatments such as eyebrow threading and thai massage, Gentlemen's Tonic also have branches in the City of London, Houston, Texas and more recently Selfridges, Oxford Street. TheChicGeek is a fan of the post party "Hemingway" treatment which constitutes of a Bloody Mary, aromatherapy facial and massage.
Sometimes men forget that beards require the same care as the hair on their heads. The result of neglected beards is wild whiskers, dry facial skin and damaged hairs. Beard oil helps to replenish and condition facial hair. It’s usually made from a unique blend of natural oils such as jojoba, lavender, grapefruit, tea tree, and almond oil. These ingredients work together to moisturise, nourish, and sooth both your beard and skin. Some of these oils are also scented, thus leaving your beard with a nice smell.
Used properly, beard oil improves the appearance of facial hair and can help to sooth itchiness. But it’s still important to point out there is a right and wrong way to use this oil. Slathering a fist full of oil occasionally may be what most men do but that will not deliver the best results.
If you want to get the best possible outcome, you should use beard oil regularly. The essential oils also have to penetrate your beard and reach the skin. Here are some quick steps on how to use beard oil properly:
Step 1 - Pour a few drops of your favorite beard oil in the palm of one hand.
Step 2 - Gently rub the oil into your beard, goatee, and moustache. Make sure to work deep into your beard so that the oil gets to the skin below.
Step 3 - If you have a full grown beard, use a bristle brush or comb to groom and style your facial hair as normal.
Step 4 - Wash your hands with warm water and soap to rinse off excess oil from your hands.
Remember to develop a routine because sporadic applications of beard oil just will not do. Instead, a consistent daily routine should be adopted to keep your beard healthy, soft, and looking good at all times.
Thanks to www.beardtrimmerreviews.co.uk for the advice.