Good knitwear is catnip to any stylish man and quality, fine knitwear is the most versatile in your wardrobe: taking you from winter through to the beginning of summer and back again.
A new brand on TheChicGeek’s radar is MG Rivers. Set up by Juliette Sherwood, who has a background in design and fashion, her mission was to shake-up men's knitwear. She pulled in her good friend Natasha Whitelock, who has a background in events and fashion wholesale and previously worked at Holland Cooper, to launch this new men's brand. The brand name is a conflation of names and initials important to them and was chosen because it conjures up a vision of a traditional British man.
The brand has launched with a selection of brightly hued extrafine merino and silk blend V-necks inspired by the classic cricket jumper. Cuffs, necks and waistbands are embellished with distinctive signature merino and silk ribbon trims, inspired by the ribbons of military decorations and each mixing one bright tone with two heritage colours to distinctive effect. The jumpers are made from the very highest quality Italian yarn and made in Europe.
Tank-tops and bomber-jacket style cardigans are in the pipeline from the brand.
Above & Right - MG Rivers - Extrafine Merino V Neck Jumpers - £185 -www.mgrivers.com
It was while at the Copenhagen fashion trade show, CIFF, previewing the forthcoming SS19 collections, when I noticed Phipps International. It was a print featuring extinct animals and the quirky and current twist on Americana and the great outdoors that made me stop and take note.
Left - Phipps International - Cotton-terry track top- £620 from Matchesfashion.com
I soon discovered that the previous collection, AW18, had been bought by matchesfashion.com and is available now.
Phipps International was established in 2017 by Spencer Phipps. Born and raised in San Francisco, he studied at Parsons School of Design in New York City graduating in 2008 with a nomination as “designer of the year” for his final year collection - an initial exploration of sustainable fashion.
He started his career at Marc Jacobs as part of the menswear design team and after, relocated to Antwerp to work with Dries Van Noten.
Currently based in Paris, Phipps, was founded on the principles of respect and curiosity for the natural world.
“We are exploring the concept of sustainability and environmental responsibility in the realm of style. Our goal is to change the way we as a culture consume by creating products that are made with respect for the environment, that can educate and enhance lives. We are always striving to improve our practice as we move forward and, as a modern fashion company, we are simply trying to do the right thing,” says Phipps.
Right - Phipps International SS19 - The extinct species print shirt that caught me eye at CIFF
What started as a small T-shirt project between friends has rapidly grown to become a modern, globally conscious fashion brand focused on building a like-minded community with the goal of re-connecting consumers to nature and the world around them.
The products are said to be made with integrity and are created with consideration for the environment using sustainable manufacturing practices and eco-friendly materials. Many of its producers are certified by GOTS or other environmental certification organisations which help to ensure that our products are made ethically.
In addition, most of their garments are made in Portugal which, as a country, is a global leader in the development of sustainable practices. All of their manufacturers there are required by law to recycle their waste appropriately, re-use treatable water, use alternative energy as much as possible, and follow fair trade labour practices.
Left - One of the jackets of the season SS19
One certainty is the trainer/sneaker/casual shoe juggernaut shows no sign of slowing down. Young men are now the biggest purchasers of footwear - Read more #ChicGeekComment The Mass Male Sneakerheads - and trainers are driving this addiction.
A new trainer label to know is Oliver Cabell. Founded in England, but now based in the US, Oliver Cabell was started in 2016 by Scott Gabrielson, who left his job at a non-profit and moved to England to start a business. With no fashion, retail, or start-up experience, Scott relied on his passion for balanced design and quality products to launch Oliver Cabell.
Left - Oliver Cabell - Ash - £145
In 2015 Gabrielson came across a news story from the 1970s highlighting a heavy night out for actors Oliver Reed and Steve McQueen. He had long been inspired by the rebellious duo, who spurred a generation to take the road less travelled. In the 1960s Reed and McQueen played the characters Oliver Twist and Martin Cabell, and he combined the two and came up with "Oliver Cabell".
As for the night out? It turns out even the “King of Cool”, Steve McQueen, proved no match for the Oliver Reed life force. The story goes that McQueen flew to London to discuss a project. Putting business aside, for a bit, the duo went on a marathon pub crawl, which resulted in Reed losing his lunch on McQueen. The project was never finished.
Right - Oliver Cabell - Amazon - £145
All Oliver Cabell footwear is made in Spain using Italian materials, and for every piece they create, they reveal their costs and tell the story of the people behind it. (This is part of the new trend of brand “Pricing Transparency” - Read more about it here ChicGeekComment Pricing Transparency)
Doing the intelligent thing of releasing new styles gradually, Oliver Cabell are launching, in two new colourways, Amazon and Ash, in their Rennes retro looking trainer. Made with 3oz suede, full-grain leather, and rubber shore A outsoles, all are sourced directly from the Tuscan region of Italy.
A psychedelic outdoor brand? Only in Manchester. Born out of the Manchester-based fanzine, Proper, Hikerdelic was inspired by creators Mark and Neil’s home town of Stockport. Lying between Manchester and the Peak District, Stockport and Hikerdelic brings together the two worlds of rambling and raving. Crossing the streams with late 80s Acid House and technical outerwear, it is said to find the perfect position between indoor shopping centres and outdoor pursuits - ‘where the peak meets the precinct’, as they say.
Starting with printed tees, mugs and sweatshirts over 3 years ago, the brand has expanded to include collaborations with Topo Designs, Holubar and Novesta. For SS19, Hikerdelic goes on a mind-expanding adventure in rugby shirts, shorts and fleece outerwear.
Right - Hikerdelic ‘Hiker Derek’ Pin - £5
Hikerdelic has that dry, but funny Mancunian wit running through it and makes practical and staple men’s pieces fun and different. Definitely something to wear when looking for those magic mushrooms up on the dark and brooding moors.
Left - Hikerdelic - Rugby Shirt Amber/BabyBlue - £65
Below - Hikerdelic - Core Logo T-Shirt Grey/Yellow - £35
Trainers or sneakers attract geeks. Like moths to a flame, or maybe the moon, ‘sneakerheads’ catch the bug and find it very hard to shake.
Oliver Wrigley is a sneakerhead and his new premium British footwear brand, Oli X Oliver, was inspired by his love of footwear and his desire to offer a comfortable range of shoes without compromising on style.
Left - AW18 Oli X Oliver - Mid-Top - £175
Each shoe is produced in Portugal from the highest quality leathers and hardware. The main vision for his collections was to produce shoes with clean lines and subtle detailing. He has done this by minimalising the number of visible seams.
At the recent Jacket Required Trade Show, where he was previewing SS19, Oliver was even showing me how the cardboard shoe boxes were the highest quality he could find and he knows it’s the small details and the attention they need which makes the sneakerhead’s heart beat faster.
Left - Preview of SS19
These are premium, but are priced competitively, and his second collection, AW18, is just about to drop in stores now.
Right & Below - In the Portuguese factory
I first saw The Silted Company over a year ago at the SS18 SEEK trade show in Berlin. I was taken with the striped 'Cali' shirt for SS18 - pictured - and the liked the idea of a relaxed, surfer brand yet with the slick manufacturing of Italy. Time flew by and I didn’t get a chance to feature them. When I saw them again at this year’s Pitti Uomo in Florence it reminded me what a good, young brand this is. Especially for summer.
Left - SS18 Cali Shirt
The brand is strongly inspired and influenced by the culture of surfing. Their collective is made up of surfers, designers, musicians, photographers and innovative directors, "embracing the curious side of the way of thinking and positive changes in the world”.
Right - SS18 Alar Jacket - €195
"Perceiving Endless" is their motto, it contains the past, present and future.
Born in Emilia Romagna in Northeast Italy, The Silted Company did not immediately taste the world of surfing, but it was their admiration towards the sport and the culture that brought them to "feel the sea inside”. This label feels young, contemporary and sporty while retaining the quality, which I love, from made in Italy.
Left - Preview of SS19
One of the things I love about Pitti Uomo, the menswear trade show held in Florence twice a year, is the exceptional quality from brands you’ve never heard of. I almost wish I had a shop to sell all these brands, but, disappointingly, you need a very tasteful and trusting customer to make it work, because many consumers are hooked on known brands.
It’s comforting to know that high-quality still exists and is to be found in small and, often, new companies.
Left - The Silk Shirt Company - White Luxury Silk Shirt - £800
One such company is The Silk Shirt Company. Doing exactly what it says on the label, it was incorporated in January 2016 in London ‘with the intention to produce the finest luxury silk shirts and to establish itself as a top tier luxury clothing brand’.
Left - Feel like a casino owner - Sam Rothstein, Robert De Niro’s character in Casino
You’ll probably already know about my obsession with silk shirts ATM - Read Trend The Return of 'The Sexy Shirt’ and these really do look the business.
Established by Ajay Valecha, of Indian decent and born and raised in Accra, Ghana, who moved to London in April 2014. The Silk Shirt Company’s shirts are made in Italy with the finest silk from Como.
There range is currently mostly block colours with a few patterned varieties. They had some beautiful baby blue and pink shorted sleeved shirts for the new SS19 season which are giving me pure Sam Rothstein, Robert De Niro’s character in Casino. They are expensive, but they look it.
Right - The Silk Shirt Company - Luxury Silk Shirt - £800