Friday, 03 November 2017 17:22

ChicGeek Comment HM X Erdem The Verdict

Menswear Erdem H&M expert verdict The Chic Geek

Arguably the biggest fashion collaboration of the year, every year, H&M are masters of creating hype and buzz with whomever they choose to tie-up with. This year was the turn of British/Canadian designer, Erdem Moralioglu, just don’t ask me to say his full name, so they stuck to just “Erdem”, luckily, and they approached things differently.

Left - Short Sleeved Shirt - £69.99

Usually you don’t get to see the full collection with prices before the big reveal, and often the collection is a seen as a “greatest hits” type homage to the brand rather than bang-on-the-fashion of the season or what customers are currently buying.

H&M held a preview fashion show in L.A. a couple of weeks ago to selected press, they released images and prices of the full collection and they held a preview shopping evening for press and the public the evening before it hits stores, this week, at the glamourous and spookily beautiful Freemasons' Hall in Covent Garden.

Menswear Erdem H&M

Erdem has never sold menswear before so it was a first, and his floral signature is definitely in vogue, ATM, thanks to Gucci. This collection is basically H&M’s nod to Gucci’s current aesthetic and hedges their bets with a public who may not know the Erdem name or care.

The queues for Freemasons' Hall was full of London’s fashion folk. Once inside it was a frenetic grab for items people came specifically to buy. There was no time for browsing.

Right - If you missed or couldn’t afford the Burberry Tudor ruffle neck white shirt, here’s Erdem’s version - £49.99 

When you see designer, Christopher Kane, amongst the hubbub of rails and elbows, you feel it won’t take much for his name to be in the running for next year’s collab. (Which would be very good BTW).

Menswear Erdem H&M expert verdict The Chic Geek

After the initial buying panic, the coats and tailoring didn’t seem to be very popular. It was the silk and floral pieces that people wanted and they quickly disappeared. Silk pieces seem to be very much in demand right now - See my favourite from Pretty Green - here - and checking on H&M's UK website you can’t even view the Erdem, page.

This is the right collection at the right time. People are going to be bored of this Gucci look pretty soon, so they’ve timed this collaboration right. The florals aren’t particularly standout, so don’t scream "Erdem X HM". They’re not that memorable which will work in their favour and, let's be really honest, men can never have enough floral silk pyjama sets!

Read ChicGeek Comment Erdem X H&M Menswear here

Left - Pyjama Top - £79.99

Wednesday, 01 November 2017 10:55

Buyer's Guide AW17 Harvey Nichols

Danielle Grantham, Menswear Buyer, Harvey Nichols 

Top Menswear AW17 Harvey Nichols Saturdays NYC

“This season, we’ve introduced New York label Saturdays NYC to our casualwear offer. Look to this brand for effortlessly cool lifestyle pieces to upgrade your weekend wardrobe. A parka is always an essential autumn/winter investment and this olive cotton one from the brand is no exception.”

Left - Saturdays NYC – Olive Cotton Parka - £530

Top Menswear AW17 Harvey Nichols APC sweater“Logomania isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. Buy into this trend with Parisian cool brand A.P.C that is renowned for its simple yet stylish staples. Paying homage to the brand’s first collection; this white flocked T-shirt is part of the Hiver 87 capsule collection celebrating the brand’s 30th anniversary and will undoubtedly be a future classic.”

Left - A.P.C – White Flocked Cotton T-shirt - £80

Top Menswear AW17 Harvey Nichols Private White VC

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

“Manchester based brand Private White VC nails luxury casualwear. All its collections are sourced and handmade in England, creating contemporary classics designed to last for years to come. This season, their rich ochre corduroy shirt ticks two key autumn/winter trends in one.”

Left - Private White VC - Orange Corduroy Shirt - £260

Top Menswear AW17 Harvey Nichols Officine Generale“Elevating our casualwear offer is Officine Generale, champions of classic wardrobe staples, beautifully designed and made out of the finest fabrics, the brand offers core pieces to be worn in everyday life. This brushed blush pink jumper can be worn with tailored pieces or dressed down with jeans and trainers.”

Left - Officine Generale - Shetland Pink Wool Jumper - £235

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Top Menswear AW17 Harvey Nichols Norse Projects beanie“Danish label Norse Projects is an expert in pared back functional basics for the modern wardrobe spanning across RTW and accessories. This merino wool beanie is undoubtedly an essential purchase for the winter months, it’s so soft that you’ll never want to take it off.”

Left - Norse Projects - Navy Merino Wool Beanie - £50

Tuesday, 31 October 2017 13:13

Label To Know Parterre

Grown in UK fragrance brand Parterre Keyneston Mill

Based on a 50 acre estate called “Keyneston Mill" in Dorset, Parterre - translated as “on the ground” - is a new and experimental British perfume brand aiming to grow many of the ingredients themselves. Two thousand plant varieties to be precise.

Founded by husband and wife, David and Julia Bridger, their backgrounds are farming and graphic design, respectively, Parterre launches with three fragrances, all limited in number and stocked at Fortnum & Mason.

Left - Not the Crystal Maze - Keyneston Mill, Dorset

TheChicGeek says, “Who knew you could grow vetiver in the UK? I always thought it was a tropical grass found in places like Haiti. Soon to be open to the public, Keyneston Mill looks set to be a destination in itself and not just for perfume fans. I can see a Monty Don special coming on!

No budget has been spared here with Sir Elton John’s ex-gardener Stuart Neilson and former RHS botanist Nanette Wraith being brought on board. Design plays an important part in the core of the garden with Renaissance Italy and Kandinsky referenced while the rest of the acreage is put to growing in volume.

Based on botanicals, obvs, the three fragrances, produced in collaboration with leading perfumer, Jacques Chabert, are “A Tribute To Edith”, geranium and rose, “Run Of The River”, bergamot mint and orange flower, and, the most masculine, “Root Of All Goodness”, bergamot, vetiver and leather.

Parterre British botanical fragrance company exclusive Dorset

I admire Parterre because they will be at the whim of the unpredictable British weather and, as such, they’re still trying to work out what works and what gives a decent standard of product. They’re also producing the oils themselves using steam distillation.

Right - Parterre - "Root Of All Goodness" - 50ml/100ml - £95/£160

Like the majority of gardens, things will get better with age. Everything seems quite new and experimental, and while the French will probably scoff and turn up their noses, literally and metaphorically, just remember they did that once to English sparkling wine and look how far that has come.

It would be nice to see which of the ingredients are homegrown - maybe a Union flag next to them? - I do think they’re missing a trick not doing at least one fragrance with 100% British grown ingredients, but I’m sure, in time, that will come. Also, they should use a British perfumer or try doing it in-house.

This plugs into the British obsession with plants and gardening and being able to visit and see the place will only add to the attraction. Of the three fragrances, the most masculine is the “Root Of All Goodness”, but I was drawn to the rose one. Men can wear pink and smell of roses, these days. I like the branding, it is fairly feminine, but the hand calligraphy numbering on the bottles is a nice touch. I’d just love to know what they could do with the stinging nettles, bindweed and Japanese knotweed in my garden!”

Tuesday, 31 October 2017 12:21

ChicGeek Comment Ode To Christopher Bailey

Christopher Bailey to leave Burberry tribute

News just in - Burberry president and chief creative officer, Christopher Bailey, who has been with the Burberry brand for 17 years, will stand down from its board in March 2018 and work with CEO Marco Gobbetti and team on a transition period until December 2018.

When Burberry’s renaissance began in the late 1990s, it was the perfect time to turn around a recognisable British name, dust it off and grow it into the new desire for luxury and branded products. We’d witnessed it at Gucci, under Tom Ford, and other languishing brands were thirsty for the same.

Burberry initially started with the Italian designer, Robert Menchetti. That didn’t last long and was soon replaced by an unknown designer, Christopher Bailey. 

Left - Christopher Bailey who turned Burberry into the billion dollar business it is today

Initially, and this was pre-Google, so you can forgive me, I thought it was the same Chris Bailey who had started Jigsaw Menswear and the soon-to-be defunct Uth. A great designer and businessman, I thought it was a perfect fit.

I quickly realised they were different people and I bought a shirt from that first 2001/02 collection. Admittedly, it was in the Harrods sale and it was very expensive, if I remember, and I still have it. It was in a stretch, striped fabric, one I hadn’t seen before, with metal Burberry branded buttons and epaulettes. There was something beautiful yet innovative which became the signature of the new Burberry.

I quickly became fan. Every collection had a strong theme and the pieces were well designed and had that all important desire factor. The brand got bigger, the shows became fancier and major events with Christopher Bailey overseeing every detail, from store fits to the music to the Testino campaigns.

Those Bill & Ben hats, the paisley collection and then there was the coats with the leather arms which are still yet to disappear off the British high-street.

Bailey is one of the greatest Creative Directors of our time. He’s up there with Tom Ford for a progressive and consistent luxury handwriting. Burberry’s growth and success is down to his balance of updating Britishness while respecting the past and knowing exactly what consumers want now.

While the average Burberry customer probably doesn’t know or care who Christopher Bailey is, for us fashion folk, we like to see the whites of the eyes of those designing and leading the brands we look at.

Seventeen years in fashion is a lifetime, especially today, and while “See Now, Buy Now” pushed him into a creative cul-de-sac, Bailey produced some great clothes and images.

I think he’ll probably take a break. Burberry has made him a very rich man. But, it is exciting what this talented man decides to do next. Perhaps he’ll join Angela Ahrendts at Apple, maybe a bigger fashion job such as Louis Vuitton, his own label or maybe something really radical like Amazon. Who knows?

See more Burberry related comment pieces:

Time to Ditch “See Now, Buy Now” here

Choose Your Rip-Off here

Monday, 30 October 2017 16:54

Hot List The Fancy Western Shirt

RRL Ralph Lauren western shirt The Chic Geek menswear top picks

As American as apple pie and a lack of gun control, the cowboy shirt is one of the most romantic and masculine of menswear items. This beauty from Ralph Lauren's Double RL label popped off their US website and is constructed from a medium-weight Japanese wool blend fabric with a Concho button at the neck. Chain-stitched embroidery uses ombré threads in a vintage Western–inspired spur motif created exclusively for Double RL.

This is the kind of shirt you'll have forever and keep returning to time and time again. 

Left & Below - RRL - Stretch Wool Western Shirt - $495

RRL Ralph Lauren western shirt The Chic Geek menswear top picks

Monday, 30 October 2017 12:29

Get The Look Call Me By Your Name

Call Me By Your Name Get The Look MenswearWe seem to bel fixated on the year 1983. First came Stranger Things and now, the new film by Luca Guadagnino, Call Me By Your Name. 

Left - Getting rave views - Call Me By Your Name - The new film by Luca Guadagnino, who also made I am Love & A Bigger Splash

Call Me By Your Name Get The Look MenswearA love story between Elio and Oliver, Armie Hammer and Timothée Chalamet, respectively, it is an Italian summer romance featuring the power brands of the decade.

Right - The film's wardrobe was very casual 80s brands such as Lacoste & Polo Ralph Lauren

From Polo Ralph Lauren shirts, clothing the arrogant and preppy Oliver, to the striped Lacoste polos on the young and loving Elio. 

Mix it with a bit of 80s Italian disco and copious amounts of drawstring swim shorts and you have your next warm weather wardrobe sorted. A future classic, it’s a peach of a film!

Call Me By Your Name Get The Look Menswear B D Baggies shirtsLeft - B.D. Baggies - Bradfort Oxford Butt Down-Pocket - £73

Below - Ray Ban - Original Wayfarer Classic - £127

Call Me By Your Name Get The Look Menswear Ray Ban Wayfarer

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Call Me By Your Name Get The Look Menswear Polo Ralph Lauren Green Shirt Armie HammerLeft - Ralph Lauren - Slim Fit Cotton Oxford Shirt - £95

Call Me By Your Name Get The Look Menswear Lacoste polo striped shirtLeft - Lacoste - Men’s Lacoste Regular Fit Striped Pima Cotton Polo - £79

Below - Boardies - Overlay Shortie Swim Shorts - £50

Persol - Havana - £153 from Sunglasses-shop

Call Me By Your Name Get The Look Menswear Boardies swim shorts 80s

Converse - Fastbreak ’83 Vintage - £70

Casio - Classic Digital Watch F-91W-1XY - £13 from ASOS

adidas - Originals Football Swim Short - £29.99 from Footasylum

Call Me By Your Name Get The Look Menswear Persol Sunglasses OliverCall Me By Your Name Get The Look Menswear Converse trainersCall Me By Your Name Get The Look Menswear Casio digital watchCall Me By Your Name Get The Look MenswearCall Me By Your Name Get The Look Menswear

Friday, 27 October 2017 16:32

Buyer's Guide AW17 Trunk Clothiers

Mats Klingberg, Founder of Trunk Clothiers

Top Menswear AW17 Trunk Clothiers LodenTal coat“I've been spending quite a lot of time in Tyrol in Austria and South Tyrol in Italy lately, so love this modern take and more slim cut version of the traditional Loden coat. It's also the same brand as the doormen across the street from Trunk at the Chiltern Firehouse are wearing, so thought it would be a nice addition to our AW17 line-up.” 

Left - LodenTal - Loden Coat Green - £940

Top Menswear AW17 Trunk Clothiers John Sterner Jumper

“I'm always on the lookout for new nice things with an interesting story, so when I spotted these lovely sweaters from a tiny island in Sweden at the MAN trade fair in Paris, earlier this year, I new straight away I had to have them. Distribution fairly limited as this is their launch season, so very proud to be among the selected few retailers that stock John Sterner for AW17.”  

Left - John Sterner - Öland Crew Neck Ecru - £210

Top Menswear AW17 Trunk Clothiers Incotex corduory trousers

“Incotex are most known for their chinos, but they also make really nice cords. Would normally not go with a colour this light at this time of year, but on a crisp sunny autumn or winter day I think it can be very nice combined with the ecru sweater from John Sterner, the scarf from Begg & Co and the nice LodelTal coat.” 

Left - Incotex - Slim Fit Five Pocket Cords White - £230

 

 

Top Menswear AW17 Trunk Clothiers Begg & Co Scarf

“Begg & Co is a long-time favourite at Trunk and I think you can never have enough scarves. Also makes the perfect gift as you don't have to worry about size.”  

Left - Begg & Co - Kishorn Scarf Natural - £270

Top Menswear AW17 Trunk Clothiers Sanders suede chukka boots

“With London's unpredictable weather you need a shoe that can take some beating, lower temperatures and rain, so this old classic from Sanders is a perfect choice that will keep your feet dry and warm over the coming months.” 

Left - Sanders - Hi-Top Suede Chukka Snuff - £200

Wednesday, 25 October 2017 22:23

Superdry The One Stop Shop For Winter Jackets

Jackets Mens Menswear SuperdryThe relationship with your winter coat is a long - okay, well, a good few months, - and close one. Your sartorial significant other, choosing and committing to a style isn’t something to be taken lightly. So, lucky then, Superdry has a Tinder-like amount of choice, this season.

Jackets Mens Menswear SuperdryFrom lightweight bombers to full on “Everest” parkas, Superdry has the full range of jackets to suit every situation and climate.

Left - Superdry - Sport Power Down Hooded Jacket - £114.99

Traditional denim jackets have been given a modern twist with Superdry varsity badges, and “Sherpa” linings. For something more formal, they have a smart double breasted wool coat, while “Rookie” styles have the addition of military-style fastenings and adjusters, plus practical pockets, to add functionality. With offerings across a palette including “duty green" and “bullet grey”, the fleece-lined styles and detachable faux-fur trimmed hoods will ensure they keep you warm. 

Right - Superdry - Limited Edition Flight Bomber Jacket £99.99

Parkas, from heavy duty to cocoon puffa, camo print to glacier, will cope with the most intense of winter extremities, plus the addition of a luxury, high performance premium down option for the very first time. 

Jackets Mens Menswear SuperdrySuperdry’s signature wind-cheater jackets have been rebranded for AW17. Options include totally fleece-lined arctic styles, colour pop zip jackets with triple layer fastenings and microfibre wind-bombers with faux-fur detailing. These essential and easy-to-wear outdoor jackets come in a rainbow of colours to fit your personal style. 

It's now time to make your outerwear mind-up. Decisions, decisions! 

See the full collection here https://www.superdry.com/mens/jackets

Left - Superdry - Faux Fur Trimmed Everest Coat - £129.99

Right - Superdry - Remastered Rogue Trenchcoat - £124.99

*Sponsored by Superdry

Jackets Mens Menswear Superdry

The Chic Geek's weekly menswear & grooming round-up including reviews of new organic soap brand, SCRUBD, Lab Series Solid Water Essence, The Drop suit making service, Gucci going "Fur Free", corduroy, fleeces, male hair transplants and a Pretty Green silk shirt.

Gary Lineker gets naked with TM Lewin white shirtsGary Lineker chooses to wear T.M. Lewin rather than go naked. When he famously tweeted he would present Match of the Day in his underwear, if Leicester City won football’s Premier League, it came back to haunt him and nearly bite him on the derrière when he had to fulfil his promise.

Left & Below - Put a T.M.Lewin shirt on it, Gary! 

Fast-forward two seasons and he’s now found his perfect cover-up. The “Perfect” man - due to his impeccable record on the football field - needs the perfect shirt and T.M. Lewin perfectly fits the bill. From “The Ultimate Non-Iron Shirt” to a cooling cotton poplin to luxurious herringbone, T.M. Lewin is the home of the white shirt and has an option to suit every-body!

Gary Lineker gets naked with TM Lewin white shirtsThe 56-year-old former striker has also got himself into hot water with transport bosses. Buses  are threatening to ban the snaps - and are demanding a pair of underpants is added to the TV star "to cover his modesty”. Ordered to put his pants back on, the full campaign has come under fire. Transport for London said: “We continually work with advertisers and brands to ensure that all adverts meet our mutual requirements. A slightly amended version of this campaign will run on our network from October 23.”

Gary Lineker gets naked with TM Lewin white shirtsWith or without pants, T.M. Lewin’s classic white shirt fulfils Gary’s every sartorial need from work to play to formal attire. London shirtmaker since 1898, their famous four for £100 offer can make everyman look as perfect as Gary.

Find out more here