In the modern world, where the male body is constantly objectified, you’d be right for thinking there isn’t much we haven’t seen. Naked men are an everyday occurrence on TV, advertising and social media. But, there is one part we haven’t seen or appreciated before, until now.
Left - Nackt, 2, 2014, Wolfgang Tillmanns from the recent Tate Modern exhibition
Is it time to appreciate the male undercarriage? Are men’s bollocks having a hirsute moment?
These aren’t the manicured porn-star-type bollocks from the nougties, but masculine, hairy and au naturel. Artists such as Wolfgang Tillmans and Celia Hempton are focusing on the sack and crack, giving them some love, in the visual sense.
Right - Celia Hempton (2013)
The male ball sack is going mainstream. Definitely not social media friendly - damn your American uptightness - but it’s the new the erongeous zone and is a signifier of the growing appreciation, and acceptance, of the male derriere.
Stephen Fry once said his favourite statue was 'David' by Francis Derwent Wood, on the Hyde Park Corner roundabout, because of his arse. Niche gay publications like Butt and the celebration of gay art at Tate Britain in the 50th year of the part legalisation of homosexuality in 'Queer Art' all make 2017 the year of the masculine arse crack.
So, put that groomer and razor away, the male undercarriage is going mainstream, just don't mind the hairy bollocks!
Below - ‘Ben’ (2017) by Celia Hempton from Counter Editions
The first rule of owning a new pair of trainers or sneakers is learning how to keep them looking box fresh. You’ll be needing a sneaker cleaning kit, then, so it’s lucky TheChicGeek is giving away 20 of the Men’s Society’s finest.
Containing two bottles of cleaning fluid and a combination brush for cleaning and restoring your sneakers, you’ll have everything you need in this handy travel tin to keep those sneakers, or indeed any suede or canvas shoes looking great, at home or on your travels.
CLOSING DATE: 04th June 2017 at 11.59pm - Winner(s) will be informed by email!
I’m not over it yet. It’s going to take time to accept that George Michael is gone. He was a very relatable superstar, the kind you could have grown up next door to. He seemed the type of man you could have stopped in the street and had a bit of banter with.
His style, over the years, has ranged from bouncy blonde to leather jacket and ripped jeans to close and cropped in minimal 90s black. From teenage boyband pin-up to respected songwriter and sampler, George Michael had the talent, ear and voice to aways create something fresh and contemporary.
One of his most famous looks was in this Katherine Hamnett slogan T-shirt proclaiming to ‘Choose Life’. From the video of his Wham hit ‘Wake Me Up Before You Go-Go’, he shimmied around the stage camping it up to the max while clicking his fingers.
Now, you can pay homage, this summer, with this T-shirt from Boohoo. Team with a pair of short shorts or swim shorts and a colourful cocktail.
You need this in your life!
Boohoo Man - Oversized Choose Life T-Shirt - £8
I hadn’t tried anything from Daimon Barber before. They invited me to try their new men’s facial which has just gone on the treatment menu at Harvey Nichols in London.
Daimon Barber was conceived in 2011 when two London based brothers, Leo Neelands and his brother Daimon, with backgrounds in design and classic barbering had a shared vision to create men’s grooming products.
Daimon disappeared off to New Zealand and the business is now run by Leo and his business partner Steve Crosby. The extensive men’s grooming range is expanding into fragrance, this year, and they are looking to double their turnover while keeping the brand in selected locations.
One of the products that was used during my treatment was the “Softening Beard & Stubble Serum’ and I was given a sample to try at home.
This easily absorbed conditioner softens tough stubble and leaves beards feeling soft and silky with hydrolyzed silk protein. It contains nutrient rich avocado oil and aloe vera to keep facial hair healthy and the skin beneath feeling moisturised. Kahai oil contains a high level of the antioxidant vitamin E, which helps to protect, repair and replenish moisture levels in the hair. This serum is also infused with our exotic and sophisticated No.5 fragrance of Ouhd and Egyptian mallow. This product is free from parabens and all the ingredients are sourced from the UK.
Left - Daimon Barber - Softening Beard & Stubble Serum 100ml - £24
TheChicGeek says, “I have a love and hate relationship with the beard. I like the look of it when it’s that perfect length and, then, it gets thick and uneven and becomes high maintenance to get it to back to that optimum point.
Anyway, first world problems and all that. The big issue for me is beard dandruff. You look down at you top and you feel like you’re a human snow globe. My skin get really dry under the beard and I’ve tried numerous oils and products over the years to try and remedy this embarrassing problem, but to no avail. It’s one of the main reasons I’ve shaved it off recently. I thought I’d grow it out to review a shaver and then I was invited to try the Daimon Barber facial. This serum was part of the treatment and it had the noticeable effect of limiting this problem afterwards.
I continued to use it at home. It has a light texture and is easy to get under the beard. You need a few pumps of the product, and I would be generous, 100ml is a decent size, so it should last a while. This really did the job to eliminate the beard dandruff. It has a nice scent, I’m not sure what it is - maybe the Egyptian mallow? but it’s not overpowering or something you’re conscious of like many beard products, particularly the scented oils.
This clearly does put a lot of moisturise underneath the beard and eliminated the dreaded beard dandruff. Now, where's that black jumper?!”
The Met Gala - you may have seen the film, The First Monday in May - is the opening night of the annual fashion exhibition at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art.
This year’s exhibition is a retrospective of Japanese designer Res Kawakubo, the brains behind Comme des Garcons. As per, the opening party is the most fashion night of the year with celebrities and designers making a statement, both good and bad.
Here are the 12 menswear things TheChicGeek learnt from last night:
Left - Bow ties - the floppier the better. Future in custom H&M & Matt Smith in Burberry
If the Met Gala can make Mr Safe, Roger Federer, try something different then that’s inspiration enough. A Gucci cobra on your back, anyone? Asp-leisure?!
Go conceptual. If your hair looks like wheat-sheafs then take them with you. Jaden Smith in Louis Vuitton
The Met Gala red carpet is not an audition for Star Wars. Puff Daddy in Rick Owens
When your parents don’t want to buy you a suit you’ll grow out of. Frank Ocean in Balmain
Below - Dress for the city, not the designer. Nick Jonas in Ralph Lauren
Bad taste Claire’s Accessories. Let the whole jewellery shop fall out. Migos
Below - Red was the colour of the night. When a suit fits this well it works. Rami Malek in Dior Homme.
Leave the Thom Browne to Thom Browne. Wiz Khalifa & Diplo in Thom Browne.
When you’re tall and thin, a la Alexander Skarsgard, in Ermenegildo Zegna, you can wear anything.
When you try and do that cute-couple-colour thing and it doesn’t work. Ryan Reynolds
At Comme, anything goes, so dress down is the new dress-up. Teletubbie optional! Pharrell Williams in Comme des Garcons
So, today is Football Shirt Friday, raising money for bowel cancer research, but if you’re a follower of fashion, then everyday, this summer, can be football shirt friday. The football shirt is the new holiday hawaiian shirt. So, bin the hibiscus and hula-hula dancers and take to the terrace.
You can pick these up from vintage stores, charity shops and on the high-street and it doesn’t really matter which team you support as long as it’s ‘Team Style’. They need to feel as synthetic, shiny and as ‘drip dry’ as possible. These are a loose fit, so not fitted, clingy or ‘muscle fit’.
Team with a tracksuit and sandals or dad jeans and the best thing about these tops are they are usually fairly cheap and low maintenance. You can even wear these tops with a suit, (I recently rocked one with my Tom Ford suit and it worked on Instagram - see picture below), or on a lads holiday.
If anybody starts to talk to you about about football, just nod and back away!
Here’s 10 of the best:
Left - Gosha Rubchinskiy X Kappa - £50
Left - House of Holland X Umbro - Striped Jersey - £61
Left - Umbro - Witton SS Jersey - £14
Below - Devote - Navy Curved Hem Faded T-Shirt - £25 from Topman
Left - Diadora - Maseru Jersey Men’s - £24.99
Left - Puma - Speed S/S Short - £13.50
Below - Le Coq Sportif - Manufrance Jersey - £60
Left - Hummel - Core LS Poly Jersey - £14
Left - New Balance - Tech Training Elite SS Jersey - £28
Below - BoohooMan - Raglan Side Print T-Shirt - £10
We need some good news, and with new footwear label, Good News, it’s coming in spades. I first saw Good News at the Designer Showrooms during the last LFWM, where they were previewing their new AW17 collection. What I liked was it was a twist on the classic American baseball shoe, but in material of the season - coloured corduroy.
Left - 80s styling from Good News SS17
Good News is a British contemporary footwear brand founded in 2016 in London by co-Founders Ben Tattersall and Nia Jones with the shared aspiration “to bring the world a little bit of GOOD NEWS”.
Nia was a shoe designer at Topshop and Ben has a background in marketing and sales. The shoes have a unique thick natural rubber sole that gives ultra-comfort for men and ladies looking for a fresh contemporary sneaker at an affordable price. Fresh bold designs and colour is at the essence of the brand’s identity and the styles that are available for the SS17 season.
Each piece is named after a traditional baseball term; ‘Dinger’ and ‘Bagger’ after a homerun, ‘Hurler’ the fast pitch, ‘Babe’ after legendary Babe Ruth and ‘Slugger’ after the ball is hit out of the park.
Hurler is a traditional baseball stripe, which comes in monochrome striped canvas with a natural rubber sole. The Bagger style comes in cotton canvas white, black or navy. The Dinger introduces colour into the collection with primary blue, red, green, off white, 70s burnt orange and black. This striking style has a contrasting white tongue that comes in cotton canvas. Babe is a canvas and nylon mix combining vibrant multi-coloured tones and Slugger is an easily styled black canvas with a noticeable white lace or matching black laces.
The collection ranges from £50 for the low height styles, to £60 for high-tops.
Right - More Good News SS17
Good News look to create a positive change in the world. From ethical product monitoring fairtrade and supply chain, to collaborations with charities and brands that share the Good News values. The aim is to engage target audiences and communities through raising awareness on important issues.
Now, just ask yourself, why buy a pair of Converse when you can get a pair of these?
Instagram @goodnewslondon Facebook @goodnewsldn www.goodnews.london
Below Right - Everything is coming up corduroy for AW17 - Good News Rhubarb Low AW17
Left - Hurler Hi AW17
Tom Ford’s Neroli Portofino collection introduces three new ‘All Over Body Sprays’. Lightly scented, the sprays are said to add a new dimension to experiencing the notes of their eau de parfum counterparts. Packaged in an aerosol bottle, each one is easily transportable. The three include: Costa Azzurra, this evokes the fragrant and sun-baked landscape of coastal and island Mediterranean woods where pines and oaks mingle with wild-growing herbs and salty water. Fleur De Portofino is inspired by the cascades of flowers from the white acacia tree, a beloved shade tree that dots the Mediterranean’s gardens and avenues, this fragrance contains notes of Sicilian lemon, bigarde leaf, violet leaf, jasmine and acacia honey and, finally, Mandarino Di Amalfi, capturing the calm idyll of the whitewashed villas lining the cliff sides of the Amalfi coast, this fresh fragrance contains mandarin oil, lemon sfumatrice, basil spearmint and a duet of jasmine.
TheChicGeek says, “I’m classing these under 'fragrance' as they are ‘All Over Body Sprays”. Gents, not to be wasted on your armpits! And that helps to justify the £44 expense. But, when compared to the fragrances, these are very ‘entry point’ and for the summer why not try one of these instead of committing to an expensive bottle of perfume? Or get all three for the price of the fragrance?
Firstly, these look better than the previous body sprays because of the colours. These feel more of a treat because of the aqua palette and are obviously aimed at summer and something you’d want to take on holiday.
These are all really nice, there's nothing not to like, but if you held a gun to my head, out of the three, I prefer Fleur De Portofino. It smells the most summery and it’s the the white flowers including jasmine that gets me every time and reminds me of warm summer nights.
These are also good for those who find the fragrances too overpowering or heavy and just want a light but 'still there' scent”.
Above - All 150ml - £44
Clinique introduces Fresh Pressed Renewing Powder Cleanser with Pure Vitamin C and Clinique Fresh Pressed Daily Booster with Pure Vitamin C 10%, a simple way to reinvigorate your de-ageing skin care routine.
Far Left & Left - Two steps - Booster & Powder Cleanser - Fresh Pressed 7-Day System with Pure Vitamin C, contains Fresh Pressed Daily Booster with Pure Vitamin C 10ml and Fresh PressedTM Renewing Powder Cleanser with Pure Vitamin C, 7 x 0.5g - £25
The new Clinique Fresh Pressed System harnesses the full power of pure Vitamin C at their highest concentration to brighten, even and re-texturise skin. Vitamin C naturally degrades over time and is most powerful when it is fresh. Specialised stay-fresh packaging isolates the pure Vitamin C until activation, maintaining its freshness and full power, to deliver remarkable results in just 7 days.
TheChicGeek says, “Who doesn’t like a 7 day treat?! There are 2 parts to this: 7 sachets, which is the cleanser part and then a small 'booster' dispenser that you mix with your standard moisturiser.
I usually cleanse in the shower, but ripping the sachet open, putting the powder in my hand and then on my face felt a little bit complicated with the backdrop of a power shower, so for this, I splashed by face first with water, then I emptied the contents into my hand and mixed with another splash of water and then applied to my face and then rinsed off in the shower. It’s a really soft cleanser and goes on and washes off easily and it left my face feeling like it had instantly experienced something good.
Then once you’ve dried your face you are ready to apply the ‘booster’ part. Rip the silver foil off the top and shake with the cap on. You simply press the top and add 2 drops, it seems to come out as one large drip which I guessed as 2 drops. You repeat this am and pm as you would your usual moisturising regime.
I’ve probably made this sound more complicated than it is, but it’s simple. Once in the routine it’s a wash and then an added ingredient to your moisturiser.
This all makes sense to me. You want something strong, but it’s obviously unstable - it is the most unstable of the vitamins - to last long-term in a product and then there’s only so much a one-off treatment will do.
This left my skin feeling refreshed, but not overly fed which often leads to breakouts. It was easy to use and I’m going to carry on using the booster until it runs out".
Let’s make something clear, Marc Jacobs is a great designer, yet his business is struggling. Why is this? Business of Fashion said, on Tuesday, the label announced its decision to shutter its men’s business, ending a license agreement with Staff International, after the delivery of the Autumn/Winter 2017 season.
Okay, Marc Jacobs menswear had disappeared recently and, to be honest, it never really have any identity and this is ultimately Marc Jacobs’ problem.
Left - Marc Jacobs going out with a Bang, now discontinued
One of the biggest designers in the world and he has difficulty establishing his own brand. Karl Lagerfeld has always been the same, but that’s a whole other ChicGeek comment.
I knew something was wrong when I went to a Coty fragrance launch, last year, and asked how the Marc Jacobs Bang fragrance was doing. They said they’d discontinued it. I was surprised because, firstly, the bottle was great and the black peppery fragrance was very wearable and commerical. Maybe it was those naked ads, starring the man himself, that tipped it over the edge!
Marc Jacobs has done a lot of things: he put Grunge on the catwalk, but unfortunately you’ll never make money from grunge, he pioneered Louis Vuitton’s ready-to-wear and introduced many great collaborations, such as Stephen Sprouse, those leopard print-type scarves were everywhere, but he’s never really owned anything. You can’t point to something and say “that’s very Marc Jacobs” which is when a brand or designer because part of the visual language and, ultimately, means longevity and heritage.
In the early 00s it was all about the Stam handbags, which were expensive, then Marc by Marc Jacobs came along and everything was really cheap. He seemed to miss the middle, sweet spot that Michael Kors has come to dominate. He was either really expensive or pocket-money cheap and that confused the brand. You never felt like spending money on Marc Jacobs.
The fashion probably wasn't expensive looking enough for the clientele who buy designer clothes the world over and when the only shop left on the street in New York that you pioneered is a book shop - BookMarc - great name BTW - it seems as though this is a signifier of how tough things are to make money from ready-to-wear even when your name is established.
The bad news is it’s only going to get more difficult in the next few years in American fashion. Calvin Klein is hoping for a resurgence thanks to Raf Simons, Donna Karan has new owners, that will no doubt start investing heavily and Ralph Lauren is bound to hit bottom soon. They’re all chasing the same customers and competition is difficult in a saturated market. Marc Jacobs needs to decide where is wants to sit within the fashion market and aim for that. Or, hope check shirts make a major comeback!