Iain MacKay is the person behind Logan MacKay Menswear. The name Logan comes from his mother’s side of the family and MacKay from his father’s. Only 24 years old, he established the brand after coming out of university where he had studied ‘Business Entrepreneurship’.
Left - AW15 - Navy Wool Bomber with Beige Shearling Collar - £650
“Although I haven't been to a fashion college or studied any fashion related courses, I learned pattern making/cutting from a family friend who had been in the industry - now retired - for over 40 years”, he says.
“Initially, I focused on designing coats and jackets (AW/15 and SS/16), but due to demand I, now, intend on producing a full menswear collection for AW/16,
“My design ethos is fairly simple, I like to create garments that I would personally love to wear and hope that transcends to the customer. I also strongly believe in supporting British factories, therefore all of the collection is manufactured in a small factory in Bethnal Green”, he says.
Right - A Preview of SS16
TheChicGeek says, "When producing small quantities of quality product, Britain and in this case, London, is ideal for controlling and fine tuning the final item. Iain obviously has an eye and with his business background it will be exciting to see where he takes his eponymous label".
One of the best and most directional collections of the season, Loewe’s menswear is overseen by the inventive eye of Irish designer J.W. Anderson.
This, his second menswear collection for Loewe, sees a creative rebrand of this traditional Spanish luxury goods company while respecting and using its expertise in leather goods.
This suede coat is one of the menswear highlights of the AW15 collection. Featuring bold red piped details on generous pockets it continues the exaggerated and retro details many menswear designers are pushing this season. At nearly £5,000 it is a major investment, but oh, what a beauty!
Left & Below - Loewe - Contrast Trim Suede Trench Coat - £4990
Available at Selfridges
When William Webb Ellis first picked up that ball, and ran with it, little did he know that nearly 200 years later 20 international teams would be competing for a cup named in his honour.
Left - Superdry - World Legends - England £74.99
The Rugby World Cup returns home to England, this autumn, in what will be one of the sporting highlights of the year.
TheChicGeek says "Rugby style, particularly the rugby shirt, never really goes out of style. Whether in team colours or bold stripes, it was a favourite of artist David Hockney and was heavily referenced by John Ray, Creative Director at dunhill, at both his spring and autumn 15 collections."
Right - A little of bit of retro inspiration - David Hockney sporting a striped rugby top
The Rugby World Cup runs from 18th September - 31st October 2015 and here are TheChicGeek's picks of the best rugby inspired menswear available:
Below - dunhill - AW15 catwalk collection - Yellow Soft Cotton Rugby Shirt - £230
Left - Polo Ralph Lauren - Custom-Fit Striped Rugby Shirt - £230
Below - Jack Wills - Striped Rugby Shirt - £49.50
Left - Jack Wills - Rugby Ball - £16.50
Left - Thomas Pink - Rugby Cufflinks - £69
Left - Thomas Pink - Stanford Knit Rugby Jumper - £225
Middle - The Rugby Fragrance - 100ml - £24.99
Below Right - dunhill - AW15 Catwalk Collection - Brown Cotton/Cashmere Rugby Polo - £625
Thankfully Gloverall has realised that there’s only so many duffle coats we can buy (they do make the best by the way) and only so many times they can wait for this classic outerwear item to come back into fashion on the back of a Paddington Bear movie.
So to fill that void and expand the offering there is a new label from this proudly British manufacturer called Gloverall 1951.
Left - Gloverall 1951 - Monty Duffle Coat - £430
Vintage inspired and delving into its rich sports-led archive, this made in England collection takes its lead from a set of black-and-white photographs chronicling the early days of the British Grand Prix.
The images from the 1950’s capture moments both on and off the race-track featuring motor-racing cause-célèbre of the day, Tony Brooks. Photographed wearing Goverall‘s iconic Monty duffle coat, Brooks is captured alongside racing legends Sterling Moss and Mike Hawthorn while racing at the Monaco Grand Prix in 1957.
For AW 15, the launch collection updates the iconic Monty duffle coat, featuring appliqué racing-inspired motifs and pins.
Additional outerwear highlights include a selection of all-weather raincoats, sporty mid-length car coats, a tailored sports blazer, a quilted rally jacket, a wadded parka and the race-inspired Paddock jacket. Premium british fabrics run throughout: tweeds from Abraham Moon, Fox Brothers and Harris Tweed feature alongside waxed cottons by Halley Stevens and bonded cottons by British Millerain.
Right - 1951 Sweatshirt - £150
The complete collection also includes a range of casual utility shirts with faint echoes of the 1950s alongside a beautifully executed selection of Aran and Guernsey knits, Fair Isle and striped options as well as a crew-neck knit emblazoned with the collection’s 1951 slogan.
Light and fresh, this invigorating fragrance based on Italian Bergamot contains notes of Calabrian bergamot, from Zegna's own special farm, along with rosemary, vetiver, and neroli, all said to 'emulate the cooling breeze, lush green fields and blue coastline' of Southern Italy.
TheChicGeek says “Nothing is more Italian or Italian summery, should we say, than the bergamot. This large citrus fruit has long been the main ingredient for that freshness in men’s fragrance, particularly some of the original Eau de Colognes which date back many hundreds of years.
This pretty much does what it says on the tin, but with a more contemporary spin. The other elements - the rosemary and vetiver give it a slight ‘marine’ hit of woody freshness to the citrus.”
Left & Below - Ermengildo Zegna - Acqua Di Bergamotto - 100ml - £76
This highly potent, multi-faceted dual-phase oil is a luxurious formula created with the highly active oils of the famous Crème de la Me ‘Miracle Broth’ formulated for the face, but indulgent enough to be used on hair and the body.
Designed to mimic the skin’s hydrolipidic structure with a combination of water and inspired by The Miracle Broth’s oil of eucalyptus and sesame, you activate it with a gentle shake.
TheChicGeek says, “Facial oils are all the rage ATM, this is my second in as many weeks - check out my review of Kiehl’s Daily Reviving Concentrate here
Crème de la Mer want you to have fun with this product, meaning you can add it to your moisturiser, use as a beard oil or even put in the bath. They want you to ‘play’ with it and use it as an addition to skincare routine.
My big problem with it is it just isn’t oily enough. Once you’ve shaken the bottle and mixed the Miracle Broth with the oil, it still feels too watery and rigid and doesn’t glide over the skin. I think in a oil you want that glistened, nourished look which this doesn’t give you.
You could apply more liberally, but at this price it’s hard to ‘play’ without being conscious of the price and how much you are using. Saying that, a bottle would last you a while.
This feels more like a novelty product rather than a serious addition for your skin.”
Left - Crème de la Mer - The Renewal Oil - £155
Nationwide October 2015
When Gucci sacked their former Creative Director, Frida Giannini, Alessandro Michele, the new Creative Director, had only a few weeks to turn around a completely new men’s collection to be shown in Milan that January.
What materialised, Men’s AW15, was a Wes Anderson like fantasy of quirky accessories, vintage looking furs and pussy bow blouses for men. A radical and welcome departure from Giannini’s Gucci look, it took a while to digest and fully appreciate.
Now the dust has settled, it feels fresh while heavily referencing the past. It’s like the most beautiful and eccentric dress up box and all part of the new unisex vision many brands are pushing. (Doubles your market!)
For a bit of background, Alessandro Michele, 42, studied at Accademia di Costume e di Moda in Rome and joined Fendi as Senior Accessories Designer.
He moved to Gucci’s Design Office in 2002, so he worked under Tom Ford, assuming growing responsibilities within the creative department until he was promoted to the role of Associate to the Creative Director Frida Giannini in May 2011.
In September 2014, he took on the additional responsibility as Creative Director of Richard Ginori, the renowned Italian fine porcelain brand that Gucci acquired in June 2013.
Gucci has realised that in order for people to buy designer clothes they need to offer something that you can’t find anywhere else. We can get choice and fit on the high-street, so luxury brands need to offer difference and craftsmanship that reeks of quality and distinctiveness in order to pay their increasingly ridiculous prices.
There is a lot in the new Gucci men’s collection that would make TheChicGeek's AW15 Hot List. The astrakhan coats look too expensive to be listed online so I’ve gone for one of the bowed sleeveless shirts. This eccentric Gucci collection has even got me wanting one of the new antiqued GG logo belts.
Choosing the equestrian discipline of dressage as its focal sport, Acqua di Parma’s new Colonia Club has the signature Acqua di Parma top notes of citrus - bergamot, lemon, petitgrain and mandarin, immediately followed by an unexpected olfactory note.
The freshness of mint – combined with neroli oil – is blended with aromatic geranium and lavender notes with equally elegant freshness of galbanum.
The dry and woody accents of Haiti vetiver, combined with precious musk notes and a rich grey amber accord, make up the perfect base, stressing the masculine, dynamic, sophisticated tones of the fragrance.
There is an Eau de Cologne spray, Hair and Shower Gel, Deodorant Stick and Spray, Shampoo and Shower Gel within the Colonia Club range.
Left - Acqua di Parma Colonia Club - 100ml - £81
TheChicGeek says, “Billed as Acqua di Parma’s ‘Sports’ fragrance, Colonia Club is a classic men’s fougeré (lavender) unpinned with fresh mint. This a classic type of men’s fragrance, thus being very wearable, in a very popular men’s family of fragrances. The mint remains warm thanks to the amber.
The only negatives are - it has that initial stickiness that you get with a lot of men’s fragrances, you could put that down to the amount of green notes in the fragrance and it also doesn’t last very long. BUT, it is an Eau De Cologne which in their nature are light and should be sprayed liberally and often.
The rich racing green colour suits the classic deco flacon and visualises this green and fresh fragrance. This is the sort of fragrance that works well across a range of products, especially the types of gym products, like shower gel, in this range."
When did Margate become the epicentre of cool? This once unloved seaside town has seen a renaissance, not only with its minimal Turner Gallery and reopened and vintage inspired Dreamland theme park, but its collection of quirky retro and vintage shops.
Left - Eau De Parfum/GPS 23’34”N - 100ml - £160
Well, it was only a matter of time before Margate would spawn a collection of local brands. The first to catch my eye is Haeckels. Kent’s answer to Aesop, Haeckels is a premium, natural fragrance and skin care brand.
Using local ingredients, most prominently the ‘hand harvested’ seaweed, all Haeckels’ products are formulated in their cliff top lab in Margate where they only use and distill locally growing botanicals, offering the very best anti-oxidant properties.
They hold one of only two licenses in England to harvest seaweed from the English coast. (Margate’s coast is genuinely unique: built on a giant 14 mile long Jurassic chalk reef which makes up 20% of the UK chalk reefs which means its able to nourish families of seaweed not found anywhere else in the world).
The local seaweed forms the base ingredient of the skincare range based on the tradition of 'Thalassotherapy' derived from the Greek word meaning ‘sea’ or ‘ocean’. Thalassotherapy treatments use ocean water, seaweed, ocean mud and marine minerals to treat ailments and enable the body to replenish, remineralise and revitalise to enhance good health for body and mind.
Haeckels was founded in 2012 by film maker, volunteer beach warden and coastal enthusiast Dom Bridges. When Haeckels was starting out Dom would collect seaweed and local botanicals along the Margate coast and bring them bring back to his family kitchen to experiment. Dom’s wife, Jo, soon said it was time to get a proper lab and turn a passion into a business as every saucepan in the kitchen was starting to smell like a skin care product. Taking his wife’s advice he acquired the 'Lab on Cliff Terrace' in 2013 where more product formulas were developed to complete the range.
Right - Chalk Room Diffuser - 100ml - £100
The company has now grown: taking on members of staff whilst still playing an active part in the local community by organising beach cleans and taking part in marine conservation surveys.
Haeckels currently has two stores: one in Margate, the other in Shoreditch and has just gone into Selfridges. They are planning the world's first Victorian sea bathing sauna on Margate beach. Watch this space.
Burberry always know when to drop items to suit the weather. This lightweight, quilted jacket is beautiful both inside and out. Perfect as an outer layer now and then as a mid layer - pictured - for when the cold weather kicks in.