Thursday, 23 March 2017 14:40

Tried & Tested Le Cèdre - Miller Harris

Review Miller Harris Le Cedre Perfumer's Library Fragrance Men'sPart of Miller Harris’ premium ‘Perfumer’s Library’ collection, Le Cèdre is the latest unisex addition. For the adventurer, it is a spicy tale of cedarwood and black orchid. It features top notes of pink and black pepper, a heart of black orchid and mimosa and, of course, the base of Texas cedarwood and musk.

TheChicGeek says, “I really like the top of this. The black pepper is raw yet clean. The black orchid isn’t the Tom Ford type, but something softer and more subtle all on the warm foundation of the cedar wood. The only issue is that the pepper quickly disappears and it would be nice for it resonate longer. I would say this is on the masculine side of the unisex fragrance spectrum”.

Left - Miller Harris - Le Cèdre - 100ml - £155

Available May 2017

Thursday, 23 March 2017 13:33

Hot List The Bomber Cardigan

knitted cashmere navy bomber cardigan Johnstons of Elgin

The jacket is dead, long live the jacket! Well, not quite. But brands or designers who produce rails and rails of coats and jackets are realising, to their cost, that people don't really need or wear them that often. What we want is something easy and warm that transcends seasons and can be used as a layer.

Enter the 'cardigan bomber'. I've championed this before, but when you find a cashmere one by Johnstons of Elgin, one of the best Scottish knitwear specialists, you know it's going to be good and goes straight to the top of my seasonal Hot List.

Left & Below - Johnstons of Elgin - Cashmere Mens American Navy Zip Cardigan - £425

bomber cardigan cashmere Johnstons of Elgin

Thursday, 23 March 2017 12:08

Menswear Must Have The Knitted Polo Shirt

Must Have men's knitted polo shirts Michael FassbenderWe’re going to take our warm weather inspiration from Michael Fassbender, today. This is how you want your polo shirt to look this summer. Of course, it helps if you have the body, but a knitted polo shirt with stretch will compliment most body types. 

You want it to cling in the right places, so the chest and arms, so go for something fitted, but not too tight. The high-street are doing some great knitted polos at affordable prices or opt for something pricier in a bold colour. Go for a fine knit wool, even in summer, or a silk mix. 

Left - Michael Fassbender at SXSW showing us how something so simple can look so good

knitted polo shirt william lockie for TrouvaHere are TheChicGeek’s favourites of the season:

Left - William Lockie for L+M Ecru Fine Knit Cotton Polo - £43 from Trouva

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

Knitted polo shirt Pretty Green menswearLeft - Pretty Green - Stone Fortrose Knitted Polo - £65

knitted men's polo shirt Prada Mr PorterLeft - Prada - Slim-Fit Jacquard-Knit Wool Polo Shirt - £545 from MRPORTER.COM

Below - Reiss 'Manor' Merino Wool Polo Shirt - £75

Menswear knitted polo shirt Reiss spring 2017

knitted polo shirt burgundy Fred Perry

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Left - Fred Perry - Tipped Knitted Shirt - £70

knitted polo green shirt ASOS menswearLeft - ASOS - Knitted Short Sleeve Textured Polo In Muscle Fit - £20

Below - River Island - Ecru Knitted Polo Shirt - £20

knitted polo shirt River Island ecru

 

knitted polo shirt mens john smedley Pretty GreenLeft - Pretty Green X John Smedley - Chartham - £135

knitted silk polo shirt H&M The Chic GeekLeft - H&M - Silk-Blend Polo Shirt - £24.99

Below - Peter Werth - SS17

Knitted polo shirt Peter Werth

Givenchy menswear Clare Waight KellerFrench fashion house, Givenchy, has a new Creative Director. British designer, Clare Waight Keller, was announced as Riccardo Tisci’s replacement last week. 

I remember her at Pringle of Scotland, but because of the way the company was run, and never really made any of the interesting pieces, it was hard to judge her menswear. She then went to Chloe, and while I look at womenswear, there wasn’t much noise or attention so I didn't really pay much attention. But, she seems like a good caretaker, at the very least.

Right - Who-bert? Hubert de Givenchy outside his chateau

While not a revolutionary appointment, I think, they - Givenchy (LVMH) , obviously, want to re-feminise the brand, most probably targeted at the women's accessories. Tisci’s aesthetic was severe, harsh and a masculine form of sexuality which probably didn’t resonate with that many women or the type of women Givenchy see as their customer. Kim K, anyone?!

I remember being told that he wasn’t under contract to use Givenchy beauty products in his shows which seems ridiculous when this is the cash cow of the business. There was also a disconnect between the fashion and the beauty side.

The menswear pioneered that designer-sweatshirt-with-a-seasonal-image look and the slide of high-fashion into sportswear. When it was good, it was good, and the menswear had never been on the radar before. Remember when Ozwald Boateng was there for a while?!! Those £500 sweatshirts were jumping off the rails. 

So, this leads me to the new menswear, which, excitingly, I don't know what to expect. The first season must be SS18, to be shown in Paris in June. Givenchy is a strange brand in that it has a very strong name, but it is not matched with any identity or imagery. The majority of people wouldn't know who Hubert de Givenchy was from a line-up - Who-bert de Givenchy?! and, apart from Audrey Hepburn, many people wouldn’t know a single item of clothing.

So, what should they do? Well, look at Balenciaga. While a newer ‘old’ brand than Givenchy, this is the first time, under Demna Gvasalia, that its archive has been referenced, but in a way that isn’t backward looking. There’s a link which makes sense when you’re buying a historical name. You want that DNA to move forward and make the label mean something. It gives it a certain weight and grounding yet far from 'archive'.

Givenchy menswear doesn’t really have anything direct to reference, but that’s the exciting part. There must be plenty in the archive to inspire and bring forward and refresh that we don't know about. Givenchy should look back to look forward. It should also ask the new creative director to oversee all aspects of the business and maybe use the odd lipstick in her show. 

The Chic Geek visits Diadora MuseumWith everything turning towards vintage sportswear, it was perfectly timed and serendipity to receive an invitation to the Diadora museum. Located near Treviso, around 40km from Venice, Diadora, the Italian sportswear brand and manufacturer, is having a renaissance and riding the wave of the revival of 80s sports classics and men’s terrace wear. 

Left - Diadora HQ is near Treviso, a town in the Veneto region of north-east Italy

Diadora museum Treviso ItalyUnfortunately not open to the general public, the museum is located at the head office and factory. Since July 2009, Diadora has been controlled by L.I.R. the holding company owned by the Moretti Polegato family, who also own Geox. They have re-established the Diadora brand and the museum is there to remind and explain to visitors and employees the brand’s history and sporting heritage.

Right - The timeline of Diadora's history in the museum

Diadora is from the Greek, dia-dorea, which means, ‘to share gifts and honours’, and was established in 1948 by Marcello Danieli to make mountain boots. Treviso is situated near the mountains and the Italian mountain police required special boots for their duties and this is why many of these types of manufacturers and companies sprang up in this area after the war. 

Boris Becker Diadora trainers sneakersIn 1960 Diadora shifted its production to sports and during its heyday in the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s, it was worn by some of the biggest sports stars of the time including Ayrton Senna, Sebastian Coe, Bjorn Borg and the Italia ’90 Italian football team.

Left - One of many of the famous sports shoes in Diadora's hall of fame - Here is Boris Becker's

Inside the Italian Diadora factoryIn 2009, Enrico Moretti Polegato, a member of the controlling family, became the new president of the company with the aim of enhancing the brand’s worldwide reputation and production. A background as a lawyer, and softly spoken, he kindly gave us the tour of the museum.

Right - Inside the factory where 10% of Diadora's shoes are #madeinitaly

The museum starts with an overview of nearly 70 years of history with a few of the original machines and processes it takes to make the shoes. An enviable collection of signed football shirts illustrates the depth of names who have worn Diadora.

Diadora's sporting heroes greats Italia 90The next part is where Geox’s expertise comes in. Masters in sole innovation and construction, they are regarded by some as the best, producing comfortable and practical footwear. A new concept, centred in the room, illustrates the breathability of their soles and how they are bringing this technology into Diadora’s new footwear.

Left - Diadora's sporting greats on the outside of the headquarters 

The final part is Diadora’s greatest hits: a display of all the sports people who have worn Diadora over the years including Boris Becker, Roberto Baggio and Francesco Totti pictured alongside their shoes.

Diadora’s collections are a good mix of heritage with modern finishes and techniques centred around the sports shoes and their current collection of 'Heritage' casual wear has the strong branding people are currently looking for. They do pure sports shoes, casual shoes and vintage inspired shoes, for many different sports, and they also produce utility shoes. Around 10% of their shoes are, now, made in Italy, and around 30% is made in neighbouring countries in Europe. 

Diadora spring summer 2017 campaign

When I visited they were making utility shoes in the factory adjacent to the museum. The small production space is connected to the design department so they can prototype and produce in limited runs and in tighter time frames. Diadora has recently specialised in producing special collaborations for brands and retailers. 

It feels that being part of a bigger group, Diadora, has more stability and the expertise and investment you need in order to be able to keep up in this very competitive market. As people grow tired of the sports mega brands and a return to those with real heritage, Diadora is in the perfect position to reap the benefits with quality products that are well made and define this new era of retro sports that has hit the current fashion scene.

Right - Diadora's current SS17 campaign which references its 80s archive

www.diadora.co.uk

More images below

OOTD Neil Barrett bomber jacketWhen TheChicGeek met Neil Barrett - see here - he was just about to unveil this collection in Milan. He told TheChicGeek he was inspired by his childhood and the 1970s and the collection was a mix of his classic smart sportswear and 70s inspired chevrons and colours. 

Neil really knows how to make clothes that flatter. Here we have a classic bomber given movement with the herringbone detail on the arms, a super luxurious knit polo with epaulettes and subtle jacquard trousers with a camo-type design. The look is finished off with smart, white gum sole shoes.

Credits - All clothes Neil Barrett from Harvey Nichols Knightsbridge, Trainers - Tim Little x Grenson, Spectacle - Salvatore Ferragamo, PRO LS All-In-One Face Cleansing Gel - Lab Series, Stress Fix Body Lotion - Aveda, 

Shot on Olympus PEN by Robin Forster

More images & video below

Want more of TheChicGeek favourite collections from SS17? See Loewe, See BurberryMenswear style influencer blogger The Chic Geek Neil Barrett

white men's polo shirt Neil Barrett OOTD Harvey NicholsSpring 2017 Neil Barrett Harvey Nichols OOTD The Chic Geekblack jacquard trousers menswear Neil Barrett The Chic Geek spring summer 2017white trainers Tim Little Grenson spring summer 2017 The Chic Geekmenswear flatlay OOTD Neil Barrett spring summer 2017 Harvey Nichols

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