David Morris, Buyer, MRPORTER
"Common Projects white leather sneakers have gained cult status thanks to their minimalist design and superior construction. I like to pair them with rolled-up selvedge denim jeans and a lightweight knit for a clean understated look”.
Left - Common Projects - Original Achilles Leather Sneakers - £265
"The 'Tony' jacket from Acne Studios is a super luxurious, minimal take on American sportswear. It comes in a beautifully constructed lightweight wool and cashmere-blend. It’s a hand-finished piece and the drawstring hem is a nice touch, it allows you to adjust the fit with ease".
Right - Acne Studios - Tony Wool & Cashmere-Blend Coach Jacket - £650
"I love a crepe sole. These can be styled just as easily with your favourite black jeans and button down shirt as they can be with a suit for more formal occasions. These are on my ‘to get’ list. Crafted in England from fine pebbled leather, these wingtip shoes boast superior construction with their signature pull tabs, comfortable leather linings and those trusty gum soles".
Left - Thom Browne - Pebbled Leather Brogues - £830
"A versatile staple and worthy addition to your casual roster. An easy layering piece - I like to throw it on over a plain white or Breton stripe tee".
Right - Margaret Howell - Ribbed-Collar Cotton-Flannel Shirt - £345
"An extensive grooming kit that comes complete with face cleanser, hydrating cream, shaving serum, spray-on moisturiser and lip cream. Everything you need to freshen up tired skin in the morning or after a long day at the office".
Left - Aesop - MR PORTER Dapper Gentleman Grooming Kit - £110
Trying his best to keep his fringing out of the torrential autumn rain, TheChicGeek sought shelter in one of London's finest Georgian arcades.
Wearing one of the key pieces from the Dsquared2 catwalk, TheChicGeek opted to dress up this typical cowboy style leather jacket for evening with a printed shirt and embroidered cropped trousers, all from the same collection.
The result is something on the Mexican border - one part cowboy, one part Mexican fiesta and plenty of ChicGeek!
Credits - All AW15 Dsquared2
Shot by Robin Forster on #OlympusPEN
More images below
They're watching you! Looking as inconspicuous as TheChicGeek can, TheChicGeek is feeling a little bit surrounded by Fendi's bug eyes.
From bags to phone covers to watches, Fendi's, now signature, bug eyes are the style talisman protecting him from any fashion mistakes!
As for the look, this ultra warm corduroy trench coat, lined in shearling, is the ultimate in 1970s style menswear. Teamed with jumbo wale corduroy trousers and handsome loafers, TheChicGeek is certainly safe from the elements too.
Credits - All AW15 Fendi
Shot by Robin Forster on #OlympusPEN
More images below
While a lucrative market, it is very difficult to enter the luxury leather goods sector fully formed. Gladstone London has done just that with its premium men’s accessories using the finest Italian leather.
Left - The signature Gladstone London hardware is handcrafted in Florence to jewellery standards. Each piece is crafted on a lathe in solid brass and finished in pewter. (I think it looks a bit like a Kalashnikov!)
Founded, just this year, by John O’Sullivan, who has over 30 years experience in luxury fashion, working for brands such as Harrods, MCM and Tanner Krolle, Gladstone London is said to reflect ‘a sense of relaxed and timeless elegance for the urban male, focusing on the reinterpretation of iconic shapes, long forgotten, but re-launched with a conscious expression of contemporary urban life’.
Right - G1 - Icon - £950
Sleek totes feature pewter plated brass zips and elegant travel bags are lined with Alcantara.
"After a lifetime working at luxury accessories brands and watching the priceless heritage of artisans working leather into timeless pieces, I saw many a design and craftsmen retire and with them, techniques lost.
"Often, pieces came back for repair, some over 100 years old, but the designs were still inspiring and still fit for purpose. It was the passion of these craftsmen and the vintage pieces that came through my hand which incorporated simplicity and an understatement of design which felt so right for now, that I set on a path to reinterpret these timeless luxury pieces with the help of a contemporary urban designer”, says John.
TheChicGeek says, “What I like about Gladstone London is the designs are classics yet still feel fresh. The styles have been given a light update and the minimal branding let them speak for themselves in terms of design and practicality. While expensive, when you consider they are handmade in Italy, they offer better value than many other brands in this market and it feels like you are paying for the design and craftsmanship rather than just the name".
Left - G48 - Hours - £1095
The entry level price point for Gladstone London is the G5 wash bag which starts from £285 up to the G48 Travel Tote priced at £1095.
The first AW15 collection is exclusively stocked at Harrods
Louis Vuitton's men's collection for AW15 looked to the British designer and artist, Christoper Nemeth, for inspiration.
Nemeth considered making clothes as one of his artistic practices. Amongst his trademarks are deconstructed tailored suits and drawings/illustrations depicting thread, needle and hands - the making of clothes - which are also featured on clothing accessories, furniture and more.
Born in Birmingham, England, he moved to London in 1979 to study painting at Camberwell College of Arts. While he continued to paint after university, he also taught himself pattern cutting and sewing, making his own clothes out of discarded post bags and canvas from his paintings, which he then started to sell at Kensington Market.
In 1986, Nemeth moved his base to Tokyo, where the Christopher Nemeth store continues to be a permanent showcase and landmark of his work. He died in 2010.
Kim Jones has used Nemeth's Celtic-like knots as the bold signature of the new Louis Vuitton men's collection.
Credits - All AW15 Louis Vuitton
Shot by Robin Forster on #OlympusPEN
To celebrate the new AW15 season TheChicGeek has chosen his best menswear looks from the strongest catwalk collections. First up is his favourite man from Nottingham - Paul Smith:
Credits - All AW15 Paul Smith Mainline
Shot by Robin Forster on #OlympusPEN
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Iain MacKay is the person behind Logan MacKay Menswear. The name Logan comes from his mother’s side of the family and MacKay from his father’s. Only 24 years old, he established the brand after coming out of university where he had studied ‘Business Entrepreneurship’.
Left - AW15 - Navy Wool Bomber with Beige Shearling Collar - £650
“Although I haven't been to a fashion college or studied any fashion related courses, I learned pattern making/cutting from a family friend who had been in the industry - now retired - for over 40 years”, he says.
“Initially, I focused on designing coats and jackets (AW/15 and SS/16), but due to demand I, now, intend on producing a full menswear collection for AW/16,
“My design ethos is fairly simple, I like to create garments that I would personally love to wear and hope that transcends to the customer. I also strongly believe in supporting British factories, therefore all of the collection is manufactured in a small factory in Bethnal Green”, he says.
Right - A Preview of SS16
TheChicGeek says, "When producing small quantities of quality product, Britain and in this case, London, is ideal for controlling and fine tuning the final item. Iain obviously has an eye and with his business background it will be exciting to see where he takes his eponymous label".
Thankfully Gloverall has realised that there’s only so many duffle coats we can buy (they do make the best by the way) and only so many times they can wait for this classic outerwear item to come back into fashion on the back of a Paddington Bear movie.
So to fill that void and expand the offering there is a new label from this proudly British manufacturer called Gloverall 1951.
Left - Gloverall 1951 - Monty Duffle Coat - £430
Vintage inspired and delving into its rich sports-led archive, this made in England collection takes its lead from a set of black-and-white photographs chronicling the early days of the British Grand Prix.
The images from the 1950’s capture moments both on and off the race-track featuring motor-racing cause-célèbre of the day, Tony Brooks. Photographed wearing Goverall‘s iconic Monty duffle coat, Brooks is captured alongside racing legends Sterling Moss and Mike Hawthorn while racing at the Monaco Grand Prix in 1957.
For AW 15, the launch collection updates the iconic Monty duffle coat, featuring appliqué racing-inspired motifs and pins.
Additional outerwear highlights include a selection of all-weather raincoats, sporty mid-length car coats, a tailored sports blazer, a quilted rally jacket, a wadded parka and the race-inspired Paddock jacket. Premium british fabrics run throughout: tweeds from Abraham Moon, Fox Brothers and Harris Tweed feature alongside waxed cottons by Halley Stevens and bonded cottons by British Millerain.
Right - 1951 Sweatshirt - £150
The complete collection also includes a range of casual utility shirts with faint echoes of the 1950s alongside a beautifully executed selection of Aran and Guernsey knits, Fair Isle and striped options as well as a crew-neck knit emblazoned with the collection’s 1951 slogan.
When did Margate become the epicentre of cool? This once unloved seaside town has seen a renaissance, not only with its minimal Turner Gallery and reopened and vintage inspired Dreamland theme park, but its collection of quirky retro and vintage shops.
Left - Eau De Parfum/GPS 23’34”N - 100ml - £160
Well, it was only a matter of time before Margate would spawn a collection of local brands. The first to catch my eye is Haeckels. Kent’s answer to Aesop, Haeckels is a premium, natural fragrance and skin care brand.
Using local ingredients, most prominently the ‘hand harvested’ seaweed, all Haeckels’ products are formulated in their cliff top lab in Margate where they only use and distill locally growing botanicals, offering the very best anti-oxidant properties.
They hold one of only two licenses in England to harvest seaweed from the English coast. (Margate’s coast is genuinely unique: built on a giant 14 mile long Jurassic chalk reef which makes up 20% of the UK chalk reefs which means its able to nourish families of seaweed not found anywhere else in the world).
The local seaweed forms the base ingredient of the skincare range based on the tradition of 'Thalassotherapy' derived from the Greek word meaning ‘sea’ or ‘ocean’. Thalassotherapy treatments use ocean water, seaweed, ocean mud and marine minerals to treat ailments and enable the body to replenish, remineralise and revitalise to enhance good health for body and mind.
Haeckels was founded in 2012 by film maker, volunteer beach warden and coastal enthusiast Dom Bridges. When Haeckels was starting out Dom would collect seaweed and local botanicals along the Margate coast and bring them bring back to his family kitchen to experiment. Dom’s wife, Jo, soon said it was time to get a proper lab and turn a passion into a business as every saucepan in the kitchen was starting to smell like a skin care product. Taking his wife’s advice he acquired the 'Lab on Cliff Terrace' in 2013 where more product formulas were developed to complete the range.
Right - Chalk Room Diffuser - 100ml - £100
The company has now grown: taking on members of staff whilst still playing an active part in the local community by organising beach cleans and taking part in marine conservation surveys.
Haeckels currently has two stores: one in Margate, the other in Shoreditch and has just gone into Selfridges. They are planning the world's first Victorian sea bathing sauna on Margate beach. Watch this space.
Marks & Spencer has asked TheChicGeek for his top tips when it comes to looking for and buying a new suit.
1. Fit is the most important thing when buying a suit. Find items in your size first, then decide on the style and material. Pay particular attention to the shoulders, cuffs and hems of the trousers.
2. Jacket sleeves should stop at the base of the thumb and trousers should gently break on the shoe.
3. The length of the jacket should be in proportion to your height. If you are taller, then opt for a longer jacket.
4. Never button up the bottom button of the jacket (if more than a one button). This is traditional suit etiquette.
5. Buy a second pair of trousers as these will wear faster then the jacket.
6. A well fitted suit will give you better posture and more confidence.
7. Steam your suit, rather than iron, to stop it going shiny.
Credits - All Marks & Spencer - Suit - Limited, Knitted Polo - Autograph, Socks - M&S, Monk Strap Shoes - Best of British