Displaying items by tag: Bally

Monday, 13 November 2017 14:11

ChicGeek Comment Greedy Margins & Brand Blindness

Bally Gucci Greedy Margins Brand Blindness

At a recent press day, previewing the new SS18 collection from the Swiss brand, Bally, I got thinking about how you can slip between the gap. Bally has followed the Gucci model of Wes Anderson statement pieces in bold colours and look-at-me graphics and slogans. But, Bally’s problem is, it isn’t Gucci, and just doesn’t have the attraction as a “name”- I actually like it more for this reason. Therefore they can’t charge the prices Gucci ask and sell in the volumes too. They also have another issue, well, it’s actually a good thing, they are offering a quality made product. 

Left - Gucci Cruise 18

I’m going to call it out. Gucci isn’t good quality. I like Gucci’s ideas, I just don’t think it’s executed to reflect the prices they charge. I’m not naive, I know luxury goods have huge margins, but there’s margins and then there’s margins. No wonder Gucci’s profits are through the roof, they are making products that aren’t as good as they should be in that price category. 

There’s enough Gucci out there, now, to hear of plenty of quality control issues: shoes than run in the rain, tiger patches on jeans repeatedly fixed, leather belts that feel like a free school belt. It’s not just Gucci doing this, but they’re the label flying high and drawing in the masses. They are also creating complicated product that requires time and a level of expertise to make it well and quickly shows its quality.

Bally Gucci Greedy Margins Brand Blindness

I recently posted a tweet following an article on the Business of Fashion - Interesting @BALENCIAGA has overtaken @gucci on the @lyst of most wanted brands.

The article said  “Balenciaga has stolen Gucci’s crown to become the hottest brand in fashion. According to the latest data analysed by BoF in partnership with search platform Lyst — which tracks 4.5 million data points per hour from over 65 million annual consumers, five million products and 12,000 brands — the Demna Gvasalia-designed brand climbed two places to top the hottest brand ranking in the third quarter of 2017.”

Right - Bally SS18

The feedback on Twitter, from many passionate people, was that they wanted Gucci and couldn’t understand this. It must be wrong. Clearly, Gucci is still in demand and they need to maximise this while they can, but this quality issue will speed up their “hot” lifecycle. People will question what they are paying for and many will feel cheated. The fashion crowd are already over Gucci.

A friend recently had a scarf, retailing, probably, for around £400, and it was so thin, it was clearly nowhere near the best quality scarf of that type. It’s almost laughable, and while people have “Brand Blindness” it’s okay, but you free-fall quickly after without quality. Quality makes people return to a brand.

And, this takes me back to Bally. Currently looking for a new owner, they need to decide whether to offer quality and an acceptable price or chase the higher margins, slash quality and see what happens. They’ll never be a Gucci, but they can clearly maximise sales, but increasing margins like many of its competitors. It'll be interesting to see who the new owner is and which direction they decide to take.

Published in The Fashion Archives
Tuesday, 11 July 2017 17:44

Trend Tissue Paper Logomania

Menswear trend tissue paper logos bally

Not all logos are created equal and one that is hot one minute, can quickly, for various reasons, become fashion deadly nightshade. Fashion goes through waves of logomania and then decides it's over, done that and goes subtle and that usually lasts about two minutes with most brands when they see sales falling.

Menswear trend tissue paper logos Palm AngelsAnyway, the hot logo for AW17 and SS18 is the full name running diagonally across. Think of a branded piece of tissue paper and you get the idea.

When Balenciaga relaunched under new designer Demna Gvasalia the website was given a tasteful tasteless makeover with the name 'Balenciaga Paris' running diagonally across. It then made its way onto clothes and accessories.

I'm not sure how long this is going to last, but, right now, it's cool.

Far Left - Bally SS18

Left - Palm Angels SS18

Below - Balenciaga SS18

Menswear trend tissue paper logos balenciaga

Menswear trend tissue paper logos msgm

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Left - MSGM SS18

Below - Balenciaga - Intarsia Wool-Blend Scarf - £365 from MRPORTER.COM

 

Menswear trend tissue paper logos bally

Published in The Fashion Archives
Friday, 17 March 2017 14:32

Comment Fondaco Dei Tedeschi Venice

Venice Fondaco Dei Tedeschi shoppingI don’t often write about new retail, it’s usually pretty boring and cookie-cutter the world over, but when something’s good, it’s good, and on a recent trip to Venice with Diadora, we were taken to the Fondaco Dei Tedeschi, the first retail store in Europe by LVMH’s travel retail arm, DFS.

Left - Inside the main atrium space of the Fondaco Dei Tedeschi

Fondaco Dei Tedeschi Venice red escalatorsLooking out onto the Rialto Bridge, across from the fish market, stands the Fondaco Dei Tedeschi. First constructed in 1228, it was once home to the German merchants - Tedeschi means German in Italian - who traded with those wealthy Venetians, taking spices and the like to Northern Europe. It became a customs house under Napoleon, and a post office under Mussolini, then lay empty. Until now.

Right - The Venetian red escalators and special Venice-inspired product graces the entrance

Rem Koolhaas floor Fondaco Dei TedeschiThanks to LVMH’s deep pockets and Dutch architecture practise, OMA, it been transformed into a sympathetic, luxury with a small L shopping space that feels more like a cross between a boutique hotel and museum that sells things, rather than a boring collection of luxury concessions all jostling for customers and attention. 

Left - On the top floor is this exhibition space with a lit floor that just needs a disco soundtrack

It’s one of the best retail spaces I’ve seen recently. The escalators are Venetian red, like moving red carpets, they take you up to the floors of men’s and women's fashion and beauty.

Best View in Venice Fondaco Dei TedeschiOn the top floor is an exhibition space and on the roof is a viewing deck looking out over the glorious city that is Venice.

Right - Head to the top floor for one of the best views of Venice. 

Opened in October, the Fondaco Dei Tedeschi has been updated, without losing any of its charm, by Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas – who was in charge of the exterior renovation – and architect Jamie Fobert – who handled the interior design.

Everywhere there is attention to detail. Every inch has been thought about: the floors, handrails, furniture, lights and the space has been designed for brands to flow, and in our ever fickle times, be replaced. 

The brands are the same old: Gucci, Bally, Bottega Veneta etc., but because it’s such a nice building and environment it makes you want to explore regardless of it being the same tired things. To be fair, the brands have done a few special pieces with the colours of the Italian flag. Also, on the ground floor, they sell wine, souvenirs and other more affordable items.

The only negative was that it was so discreet, the name ‘ Fondaco Dei Tedeschi’, which doesn't exactly slip off the tongue, was only at the front door and you wanted to know/learn the name in order to tell other people how good it was. If you’re in Venice, definitely take a look. 

Published in The Fashion Archives

menswear trends ss17 gucci pink greenmenswear trends spring summer 2017 the chic geek bally pink greengucci menswear milan trends spring summer 2017 the chic geek pink greenItalians do it better. This seems to be the theme coming out of Milan fashion week where the Italians have taken the bull by the horns and produced some of the best menswear we’ve seen from them in a long time. You may as well go down in style!

Here are TheChicGeek’s trend highlights:

Pink/Green Scene

Think avocado and prawn cocktail sauce.

From Left - Gucci, Bally, Gucci

 

 

 

 

 

 

menswear trends milan seventies neil barrettmenswear trends milan fashion week fendi seventiesmenswear trends fresh seventies dsquared2neil barrett spring 2017 hot menswear trendsFresh 70s

The seventies got a refresh and contemporary update. Chevrons were the order of the day.

From Far Left - Neil Barrett, Fendi, Dsquared2, Neil Barrett

(See TheChicGeek meet Neil Barrett just before this collection - here)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

menswear trends spring 2017 fendi towelling coatmenswear trends fendi towelling coat spring 2017 the chic geekTowelling Coat

Knowing Fendi this is probably made from kittens. Get the robe out of the spa and take it to the street.

Both Fendi

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

bleach trend menswear guccimenswear trends bleach dsquared2 the chic geek spring 2017 summer menswear trends bleach the chic geek msgmmenswear trends bally spring summer 2017Bleach

More bleach. It's one way of cleaning your clothes. (See how London did it - here)

From Left - Gucci, Dsquared2, MSGM, Bally

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

trend menswear spring summer 2017 moncler gamme bleu scout menswear trends the chic geek spring summer 2017 ferragamo scoutboy scout fashion prada milan the chic geek spring summer 2017Scoutmenswear trends scout spring summer 2017 ferragamo

The most stylish men are always prepared. Now get over prepared!

From Left - Moncler Gamme Bleu, Ferragamo, Prada, Ferragamo

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

evening menswear trends versacenew evening menswear dolce & gabbanaevening menswear gucci spring 2017New Evening

Nobody dresses up anymore, said no one, ever. It's time to get imaginative and experiment with new shapes including ruffles and tails.

From Left - Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

jazz age menswear trends the chic geek spring 2017 dolce gabbanamenswear trends art deco missoni spring 2017 fendi menswear trends ss 17 the chic geekralph lauren menswear trends the chic geek milan ss17fashion menswear duncan grant trendsJazz Age

Jazz, great! From literal at Dolce to art-deco Marcel waves at Fendi. I thought I'd throw a painting from the era by British artist Duncan Grant for additional inspiration. 

From Left - Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Missoni, Fendi, Ralph Lauren 

logo belt bally spring summer 2017Logoed belts

Rediscover your waist. Suck it in and stick a letter on it. 

Left - Bally


Brand #me

Nobody does narcissism like the Italians!

Below - Giorgio Armani

brand me menswear trends the chic geek giorgio armani

Published in The Fashion Archives
Monday, 07 March 2016 16:38

How To Do Flower Power SS16

jared leto gucci oscars corsageThis isn't flower-power in the traditional hippie sense. This is flower-power in the Jared-Leto-at-the-Oscars way. Oversized corsages worn with confidence and a modern masculinity. We've got the all new singing and dancing Gucci to thank for these floral flourishes. For SS16, things are bold and colourful. These are perfect for something different for a prom or an evening wear look. Wear where a bow-tie or neck tie would be, or add in your button hole. Who said menswear wasn't fun?!

Left - Jared Leto in Gucci at the 2016 Oscars

gucci ss 16 advertising peacock male

Left - The peacock male, Gucci's SS16 advertising campaign

Below - The corsage on the Gucci SS16 catwalk

gucci corsage menswear to make one

chic geek mens flower corsage

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

How to make your own flower-power corsage:

1. Look for a large silk headed flower. I found some good ones in the local pound shop. Go for a dark colour, if you want masculine, or bright, fuchsia pink, if you really want to stand out.

2. Use pliers to snip off the flower head from the wire stem.

3. Find a piece of ribbon, long enough to tie around your neck. Use a ribbon from a carrier bag, if you can find one, or buy a small length.

4. Snip, using a pair of scissors, a small hole in the middle of the ribbon.

5. Push the stem of the flower through and, using a glue gun, generously secure the end to the ribbon.

Voila! You're red carpet ready!

Left - One TheChicGeek made earlier!

 

dunhill flower corsage s16dunhill menswear floral top hatSee how TheChicGeek styles his here

Left - dunhill SS16

bally flower corsage menswear s16 the chic geekRight - Bally SS16

 

Published in How To
Monday, 26 October 2015 16:26

Style Icon - Chewbacca

Chewbacca style icon the chic geekHalloween is nearly upon us and we’re all trying to think about which character we want to dress up as for the evening. Well, here’s a suggestion that will continue to run well after the end of October - Chewbacca. Yeah, Chewie, baby, that gentle fur mountain is back in yet another installment of Star Wars and one of our ChicGeek Style Icons of the season.

Left - Chewie

ASOS mens faux fur coat chewbacca

As hairy as hairy gets, Chewbacca is having something of an inspirational moment in the world of menswear right now. 

Left - ASOS - £100

A full fur coat on a man can be a) a little daunting and b) way too much if not in a fun-fur kind of way, so think Chewbacca-chic when rocking a new season fur coat. It needs to look like the kind of fur that needs its roots doing - slightly trashy.

So forget the thermal long-johns or that triple layering, just think Chewbacca come wintertime. May the fur be with you!

 

paul smith mens fur coat chewbacca chicLeft - Paul Smith - Sheepskin Overcoat - £6445

Below - Bally 

Bally men's fur coat chewbacca the chic geekriver island men's fur coat the chic geekLeft - River Island - £85

Published in The Fashion Archives
Friday, 26 June 2015 13:56

TheChicGeek’s Milan SS16 Scrapbook

Gucci menswear chinoiserie ss16 geekdolce & gabbana menswear chinoiserie chinese ss16chinese menswear dolce & gabbanaMilan is home to many of fashion's megabrands. This powerhouse is full of the commercial sex appeal we've come to expect from the home of Italian fashion. TheChicGeek casts his expert eye over the details and trends worth coveting:

Chinoiserie

It could have something to do with the recent MET exhibition in New York, or simply the cycle of Chinese influence is coming around for another season, but look out for Mao collars and delicate Chinese decoration in relaxed, voluminous shapes.

From Left - Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Dolce & Gabbana

Nightwear

Step straight out of bed, or straight in, depending on timings, with the new dressing gown type coats and pyjama shirts.

Below - Both - Bally

menswear bally spring summer 2016 pyjamabally menswear spring 2016 milan dressing gown

menswear milan trends ferragamo lines distortionmilan menswear trends 2016 ferragamomenswear trends the chic geek MGSM milan spring 2016Distortion

No, you're not seeing things. Colour and pattern are stylishly distorted to make the wearer standout while confusingly blending in.

From Left - Salvatore Ferragamo, Salvatore Ferragamo, MGSM

Longline

Call it ethnic or ASOS!, everything is untucked and in a longer length. Just be careful when wearing with shorts.

Below - Both - Versace

menswear versace longline spring 2016milan trends menswear the chic geek spring 2016 versace

menswear trends ss16 jil sandermenswear trends ss16 prada technicalTechnical

Comfort seems to be the key for technical fabrics today: a new ease of movement and travel focused.

From Left - Jil Sander, Prada

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

denim menswear trend calvin klein ss 16menswear trends milan spring summer 2016calvin klein denim menswear trends milanports 1961 menswear trends 2015Denim

Shake that money maker! The money spinner for the majority of major fashion brands, it appears on the catwalk in recognition of the part it has played in creating these brands and the fashion landscape today.

From Left - Calvin Klein, Ports 1961, Calvin Klein, Ports 1961 

  

 

 

 

 

 

menswear trends birds guccimenswear trends milan spring summer 2016 ports 1961bird trend menswear dolce & gabbanaBirds

Not so much Hitchcock as Attenborough with parrots to hummingbirds seen on the chests of menswear from Milan.

From Left - Gucci, Ports 1961, Dolce & Gabbana

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

lace menswear trend No.21gucci lace menswear s16 the chic geekSS16 menswear trends milan gucci laceLace

I can see right through this trend which was first seen in London.

From Left - No.21, Gucci, Gucci

gucci leather coat menswear s16Patchwork

Just because - The new Gucci is slightly mental - good mental - in a Fight Club meets Peter Sellers kinda way. Love this dressing up box style.

Left - Gucci

 

 

Published in The Fashion Archives

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