Displaying items by tag: Fragrance

Tuesday, 09 February 2021 12:27

Versace EROS Eau de Parfum

versace men's fragrance eros eau de parfum“I envisioned a heroic, passionate man, almost a Greek god. The fragrance is made up of notes that express sensuality and power, an extreme force”Donatella Versace

Versace's Eros fragrance, launched in 2013, gets an Eau de Parfum upgrade. The woody, oriental has a new chapter, revealed in the depth of its woody accord, cedar - vetiver - patchouli, rekindled by the radiant, energetic light of the quintessentially Italian lemon and mandarin and enlivened by a unique note of candied apple. Decadent vanilla dares to flirt with leather in the final note.

The campaign was shot in London by photographers Mert & Marcus, under the creative direction of Donatella Versace. The protagonist is the American model Brian Shimansky.

versace men's fragrance eros eau de parfum

Left - Eros Eau de Parfum is available exclusively at Boots nationwide - 100ml - £85

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versace men's fragrance eros eau de parfum

Published in News
Thursday, 04 February 2021 17:38

Paco Rabanne 1 Million Still Top

top UK men's fragrance lookfantastic paco rabanne 1 millionA new study by online beauty retailer LOOKFANTASTIC has revealed that Paco Rabanne 1 Million is still the UK's favourite men's fragrance. The study analysed Google search volumes of over 70 of the top-selling male fragrances in each country across the globe, revealing the most popular worldwide.

Paco Rabanne's 1 Million also came out as the top fragrance in 26 other countries such as New Zealand and Canada too. Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille came in second, coming in top across 22 countries and Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male came in third by being the most popular in 20 countries across the world.

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Published in News
Tuesday, 01 December 2020 16:30

ChicGeek Comment Lockdown Sizing

lockdown sizing in fragrance moschinoThere was a time when the sizing of perfume and fragrance couldn’t get any bigger. Brands and designers were piling into flacons of 200ml and upwards, trying to squeeze as much money as possible out of consumers for their hit ‘juices’. Two hundred millilitres is more conducive to the drinks cabinet than the bathroom.  Then came lockdowns.

Left - Brands such as Versace and Moschino are producing 'lockdown sizes' of 10ml fragrances for £20

A McKinsey report in May, 2020, said, with regards to the global beauty market, “2020 will be one of the worst years it has ever endured.” The report said consumer retail spending on beauty products was experiencing a sharp decline (up to 20%) as well, leading to an unprecedented projected $175 billion USD loss in revenue for the industry this year. 90% of women stated, in the report, they used little to no makeup while working from home.

It said, in May, “based on the scenarios most expected by global executives and current trends, we estimate global beauty-industry revenues could fall 20 to 30 percent in 2020. In the United States, if there is a COVID-19 recurrence later in the year, the decline could be as much as 35 percent.”

Unilever too has reported declining revenues in its personal care division. An update in April warned about shrinking personal care sales because more people working from home meant they were washing their hair less often, putting off shaving and even ditching deodorant. Four months on, in its Q3 report, it said personal care sales had continued to slump.

Graham Pitkethly, Unilever’s chief financial officer, said "fewer personal care occasions from going to work or socialising” impacted sales. Skincare declined high-single digit and deodorants declined low-single digit. Though there was a slowing of declines when we came out of lockdown during the summer.

The greedy fragrance industry has been built upon a biggest is best attitude when it comes to their products, and especially gifting, when, in fact, a little should go a long way. Brands have realised that demand has changed and are now launching smaller sizes in 10ml or 20ml editions. Moschino and Versace has 10ml options in many of their fragrances including ‘Toy Boy’, ’Dylan Blue’ and ‘Eros’ for £20. Eight & Bob has added a range with a 30ml (with optional artisan leather case), a size which isn’t often seen in bridge/niche brands. Much of this sizing was ironically called ‘Travel Size’ when, in fact, it’s the lack of travel and leaving the house which is creating the demand. Tocca has a ‘Travel Trio Set’ containing three 20ml bottles, while Goutal Paris is offering a ‘discovery set’ containing four classic 10ml fragrances from their range.

Sarah Binns, Head of Training at KGA, one of the UK & Ireland’s leading fragrance distributors, currently representing over 25 premium perfume brands, says, “Ironically I saw this ‘travel size’ trend start pre COVID-19 in response to the always on the go lifestyle and as a way to entice younger consumers into the category with a lower price point on luxury brands. Retailers had started requesting smaller sizes in fragrances to showcase in their pick ’n’ mix style locations near till points. It is interesting to see how this new size category has become so valuable in the current climate too.” she says.

“I think a lot of brands had started to develop these sizes pre lockdown for other reasons, but they have really come into their own with the current situation. Brands are aware that consumers are nervous to spend on something they can’t try first so this is a great solution.” says Binns.

The McKinsey report said, in most major beauty-industry markets, in-store shopping accounted for up to 85 percent of beauty-product purchases prior to the COVID-19 crisis, with some variation by subcategory. Even online-savvy American millennials and Gen Zers (those born between 1980 and 1996) made close to 60% of their purchases in stores. With the closure of premium beauty-product outlets because of COVID-19, approximately 30 percent of the beauty-industry market was shut down. Some of these stores will never open again, and new openings will likely be delayed for at least a year.

lockdown sizing in fragrance goutal paris

Suzy Nightingale, Senior Writer at The Perfume Society says, “We’re definitely seeing more fragrances offered in smaller ‘try me’ sizes, and although beauty products have been used less in lockdown; we’ve actually seen a huge rise in sales of our discovery boxes and brand sets, which offer sample vials, miniature bottles and travel sizes to try at home. Classic scents have even made a comeback as people reach for a familiar fragrances as a comfort blanket, reminding them of happier times.” she says.

Right - Goutal Paris 4 x 10ml fragrance sizes exclusively available at John Lewis: www.johnlewis.com - £68

“I think there’s been a desperate longing for ‘newness’, and we’ve also had fragrance lovers tell us they don’t want to associate this year with a single scent.” says Nightingale. “Simultaneously, many fragrance houses suddenly realised that, if people can’t get to shops or, when they do, tester bottles aren’t readily available anymore. This fast-tracked something we’ve all been asking for anyway: smaller size bottles we can try before we buy, or use to explore a diversity of scents or fragrance notes out of our usual comfort zones. 

“I definitely see this trend continuing - online previously had the hurdle of being a difficult place to buy your first full-size bottle of perfume if you’d not smelled it already. Nowadays, people want greater choice and the chance to flirt with lots of fragrances. Sometimes more IS more, but it doesn’t always mean a bigger bottle…” she says.

While the term ‘lockdown sizing’ won’t be used by the brands, it’s an interesting twist on the entry ‘travel size’ offer. These prices are keener and entice people to buy before they try. This is the beauty industry's version of a micro-bag; an entry level product aimed at younger and less affluent consumers. 

“Smaller sizes bring accessibility, the signature scent is becoming a thing of the past and it is much easier to build a large fragrance collection with these entry price options. In an environment when you often can’t test the product before you purchase, it’s a smaller risk to invest in a mini size first.” says Binns.

“I think this trend will continue within the COVID-19 environment as a way to experience new products before making a larger investment in the full size. Once we are able to travel again I’m sure that they will become even more popular for their portability.” she says.

How many people are wearing fragrance at home, or, at least, in the quantity they used to without social engagements and interaction with other people or work colleagues? The cheaper prices are also a factor in their popularity. When fully branded and looking as good as the full size bottles, rather than a simple tester, these items look much more desirable.

“Consumer confidence is low and this always has an effect on spending within beauty. People are reaching for products that make them feel good as oppose to looking or smelling good for other’s benefit. Fragrance sales were hit hard at the beginning of the pandemic but we have seen a steady increase as people rediscover the joy of treating themselves or showing love to others with a gift that encourages wellbeing” says Binns.

Sales in smaller sizes are better than no sales at all for the beauty industry, and the margins will be higher. The fragrance industry will hope these smaller lockdown sizes will encourage and continue the habit of individuals wearing fragrance even if we continue to be on our own.

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Published in Comment
Friday, 21 February 2020 12:10

Label To Know Gallivant Perfumes

Review 
Gallivant Perfumes Tokyo tried testedA new indie perfume brand from London, founded and created by Nick Steward, Gallivant works in collaboration with perfumers in Venice and Paris. The collection of eight hand-crafted fragrances, named after some of the world’s most vibrant cities, are designed to be travel-friendly with 30ml sized bottles, perfect for slipping into your holdall. 

Nick Steward has two decades of hands-on experience in perfume making and was product and creative director of the pioneering niche house L’Artisan Parfumeur.

Handmade in the UK, unisex, vegan and cruelty-free. Gallivant is an ethical and sustainable independent artisan business. 

Left - Gallivant Perfumes - 30ml Eau de Parfum - £65

TheChicGeek says, “The Phileas Fogg of perfume, Nick Seward, has produced a travelogue of scent. From Tel Aviv to Brooklyn, each fragrance is a modern take on a place memory. 

I was hoping ‘London’ was going to smell like the inside of a red telephone box. Ewww!

If I had to pick a favourite, I would say ‘Tokyo’. Created with Nicolas Bonneville, it is a zingy, spicy, wood. A citrusy head of bergamot and yuzu with black pepper and cardamom, is electrified with a dash of wasabi. A woody heart of hinoki, cedarwood, and incense with orris root, rose and nutmeg mixes with a base of amber, sandalwood, patchouli and vetiver.

Tokyo has a slightly treacly cola top with an aquatic freshness. The warmed incense is there, but it’s deep and kept light with the fruit.”

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Disclosure - A sample was gifted by Gallivant for review

Published in Grooming
Friday, 22 November 2019 15:58

Tried & Tested Parterre The Hour of Dusk & Gold

Review 
fragrance Parterre The Hour of Dusk & Gold tried testedInspired by the warmth of a Moroccan evening, the fusion of spices coming from the medina and the hues of the setting sun over the ocean viewed from the rooftops of the Essaouira, The Hour of Dusk & Gold is the latest fragrance from British brand, Parterre. Persian wild carrot seed and angelica root grown of Keyneston Mill, are embellished with orris and a swirl of nutmeg, lavender, and bay.

Left - Parterre - The Hour of Dusk & Gold - 50ml - £95

TheChicGeek says, “Parterre launched two year’s ago with the ambition of turning a corner of Dorset into Britain’s answer to Grasse - See Label To Know - Parterre from TheChicGeek archive - here I wanted to see how they were getting on. Like I said to the founders, Julia and David, when people planted vineyards in England, decades ago, people scoffed, and the same could be said for this idea. As the climate changes, this could become a leader in this field for UK grown fragrance ingredients.

While the fragrances aren’t 100% UK grown, this new scent does includes carrot seed and angelica root from their farm.

This is lightly spiced and it has that attractive warm and dry sensation from the carrot seed. The iris orris root always enhances and gives depth to the other notes, but nothing sticks its head out here as individual notes. As a fragrance is it wearable while offering something different without trying too hard, but I do think it’s important to give fragrances more simpler and memorable names."

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Published in Grooming
Friday, 01 November 2019 17:15

Label To Know Ormaie

Review 
New fragrance label Ormaie Paris Harvey NicholsA French term for a place you'd grow elm trees, now sadly long gone due to Dutch elm disease, 'Ormaie' is a mother and son - Marie-Lise Jonak and Baptiste Bouygues - team producing completely natural and vegan fragrances. Seven in total, all featuring striking and sculptural wooden stoppers, they are produced and formulated alongside renowned raw natural ingredient specialists, Robertet. The glass bottle is by Saverglass, the only French glassmaker to recycle their own glass magma.

Fragrances include '28°', said to be Bouygues' perfect temperature, 'Yvonne' named after the grandmother and 'Le Passant' meaning the passing man, and deemed the most masculine fragrance.

TheChicGeek says, "Of the seven, I liked 'Les Brumes' (The Mists) the most. It is a citrus inspired by morning mist on the fruit trees. Ingredients include lemon, mandarin, bergamot, ginger and sandalwood." 

Left - Ormaie - 100ml - £180 Exclusive to Harvey Nichols

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Published in Labels To Know
Friday, 20 September 2019 12:32

Tried & Tested Moschino Toy Boy

Review 
Moschino Toy Boy best rated tried testedMoschino’s latest men’s fragrance is a spicy, woody amber. Containing top notes of Italian bergamot, pink berries, elemi, Indonesian nutmeg, pear, cloves, heart notes of Neoabsolut Orpur rose, flax flowers, cashmeran, magnolia and base notes: Haiti Orpur vetiver, ambermax and sylkolide.

TheChicGeek says, “Sinitta once sang, ‘He’s my toy boy, toy boy, I’m out with my toy boy, toy boy, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday night,’ well, it kept her busy, and Moschino’s Jeremy Scott is having some serious leather boy fun with his one.

The fragrance is a sparkling rose surrounded by notes I can’t quite put my finger on. There are lots of ingredients here that I don’t recognise. 

Review 
Moschino Toy Boy best rated tried testedIt’s camper than Katy Perry dressed as a chandelier and that makes it all the more interesting. It’s the opposite of the imagery and while a reflection of the bottle, the fragrance feels pink in colour.

I love what Scott does at Moschino and his playfulness was made for fragrances and especially the packaging. The choice of model and styling really works for this.” *puts chaps on*

Left - Moschino Toy Boy - 100 ML  - £85 Exclusive to Selfridges

Right - A look that never gets old - Jhona Burjack in the advert for Toy Boy

Disclosure - A sample product was gifted by Moschino to review

Published in Grooming
Tuesday, 03 September 2019 16:12

Tried & Tested Merchant Of Venice Imperial Emerald

Review 
Merchant of venice fragrance Imperial Emerald best rated tried testedCreated by perfumer Jordi Fernandez, ‘Imperial Emerald’ layers iris, Egyptian jasmine and lily of the valley over a subtle base of white musk.

The perfume was inspired by the beauty and majesty of the peacock. Native to India and Sri Lanka, for centuries the peacock has been interpreted by different cultures as a symbol of immortality and regality.

TheChicGeek says, “This looks beautiful with its real feather detail, and you know how much I love Venice. The fragrance is very white florals. There’s a lot going on here with top notes of bergamot, mandarin, pink peppercorn, carnation and iris. Heart notes of orange flowers, ylang ylang, peony, egyptian jasmine, lily of the valley and a base composed of white amber, benzoin and white musk, so it’s definitely not for the wallflowers of fragrance.

It smells old-fashioned, but not in a bad way. It’s probably too blousy for me, but would suit some of those other strutting male peacocks I know..."

Left - Merchant Of Venice - Imperial Emerald Eau de Parfum Concentrée - 100ml - £250 Available exclusively from Harrods

Disclosure - A sample product was gifted by Merchant of Venice to review

Published in Grooming

Review 
Bespoke London Superdrug men's fragrance best rated tried testedBrand new and exclusively available at Superdrug, Bespoke London is a new collection men’s fragrances. One of four, ‘Fresh Citrus & Vetiver’ is said to be zesty notes of fresh ginger and mandarin with classic notes of vetiver, amber, musk and patchouli.

TheChicGeek says, “It’s always best to try a fragrance before you look at the price. It takes it back to what fragrance is really about, and this surprised me being under a tenner. Okay, so it doesn’t last long, but there nothing wrong with its fresh fougère - there are hints of lavender - appeal.

While the packaging and bottle is bland, it’s not really trying to be anything it is not. Which is good. This is the same quality you’ll find with the mainstream designer fragrances, and it’ll make you a cleverer consumer to get your everyday fragrance fix from something like this.

This is fast fragrance.”

Left - Bespoke London - Fresh Citrus and Vetiver - 100ml - £9.99 from Superdrug

Disclosure - The product was gifted by Bespoke London to review

Published in Grooming
Friday, 23 August 2019 16:29

Tried & Tested Jean Paul Gaultier Le Beau

Review 
Jean Paul Gaultier Le Beau men's fragrance best rated tried tested"When Jean Paul Gaultier opened Beau's case and, closing his eyes, the smell of coconut wood inspired a profound desire to relax, while the bergamot and the tonka bean whispered to him that lounging was the most refreshing of sins."

The perfumers were Quentin Bisch and Sonia Constant who teleported themselves to “Gaultier's garden”.

TheChicGeek says, “What a beauty! Jean Paul sticks to his winning formula here; tin can packaging, torso bottle and well priced. This is JPG’s Adam, with the giant fig-leaf to match - ooo-er.

The fragrance is an unapologetic gourmand with lots of yummy notes, making this a fun fragrance, but not sickly. It’s wearable and will definitely appeal to the devoted Le Male fan club. While containing the masstige tonka bean, it doesn’t smell generic or boring and has the same tongue-in-cheek sense of humour we adore from Mr Gaultier.”

Left - Jean Paul Gaultier Le Beau - 75ml - £44.62

Disclosure - The product was gifted by Jean Paul Gaultier to review

Published in Grooming
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