Displaying items by tag: Jil Sander

MCM Pitti Uomo SS19

MCM
The German/Korean accessorises juggernaut, MCM, rolled into Florence to showcase its first, full ready-to-wear fashion collection. Driven by the Asian consumer and the power this brings, MCM is finally making in-roads into the European and global luxury goods market.
Two dancers, surrounded by falling precipitation, welcomed us into the darkened show space. Their breakdancing quickly made way for a collection that was strong on festival fashion. Designed by an in-house team, the ’Luft Collection’, meaning air in German, was multifunctional sportswear for the genderless generation.
 
Left - Will MCM's new ready-to-wear collection be cool enough for Glastonbury when it returns next year?
 
Think Glastonbury for the moneyed, rock ’n’ roll offspring elite who aren’t afraid to be noticed for having money. Lots of straps, pockets and hoods in bright, holographic and reflective fabrics. Your Deliveroo 3M was here, plus ribbon belts and elasticated and Velcro fastenings at the waist and wrists allowing the wearer to quickly adapt to their festival needs.
This is the type of collection British brand, Hunter, has tried to do before, when they dabbled with the catwalk, but the difference is MCM already has this young, hungry consumer. 
I’m not really a fan of MCM’s Benidorm-tan signature colour, but this took a back seat here. This was young and I’m guessing more accessibly priced. 
I can see the holdalls with a large rubber MCM on the bottom proving popular plus the runner-sandal with a breathable a waterproof integrated sock.
This type of collection will grow the brand into the more practical side of summer fashion and make product choice available for those consumers who don’t want anything heavily studded or branded, or both!
 

Roberto Cavalli Menswear SS19

ROBERTO CAVALLI
Pitti Uomo welcomed the continued relaunch of Roberto Cavalli’s menswear and the company really needs this to fly. Now under the creative direction of Paul Surridge, the British designer formerly at Jil Sander and Z Zegna, Cavalli, as a brand, has gone through something of a rocky patch. After moving the HQ from Florence to Milan, under the short lived leadership of Peter Dundas, they let nearly a third of their workforce go. It’s now back to Florence and this was Surridge’s second full collection of menswear. 
 
Right - Blurred digital prints and bad denim at Roberto Cavalli for SS19
 
Up in the hills, outside of Florence, in the refined surrounds of the Florence Charterhouse, this monastic setting saw a collection that ran from white to black with the brand’s famous animalistic signatures in-between.
This was a new, slicker and sporty Cavalli with the animals skins subtly layered rather than trowelled on, like in previous years. Gone was the boho, overly beaded Cavalli and in its place was something for a new customer that continues to buy into ‘designer’ fashion, but wants ease and wearability.
Reptiles, fish, (alien?) skins were jacquarded into fabrics. Leopard print was digital yet blurred and knitwear was finished with broken threads hanging down.
There was a nod to the current bad denim fashion and add the snakeskin boots, which Cavalli should really own, it referenced the Martine Roses and Balenciagas of this world.
One of the standout pieces was a tapestry intarsia coat covered in the Cavalli logo and good luck talisman. A digital watch print added humour and the python soled trainers looked almost aquatic as they breathed past.
As we went into the black and final evening section, bugle beads were applied in constrained vertical lines. It was all very controlled and refined.
I like this new Cavalli, it feels fresher and more contemporary. But, is this is what their current and loyal customer wants? If not, they need to find a new one and fast. Maybe those good luck talisman have a deeper meaning.
Published in Fashion
Tuesday, 16 August 2016 13:22

Label To Know Helbers

chic geek menswear label to know helbersDoes menswear really need yet another luxury label? It does if it can offer something different that caters to wealthy men by making their lives easier, increasing comfort and looking smart while not being too difficult or ‘fashiony’ to wear. So, no challenge there then?!

Left - Helbers AW16 Luxury menswear staples with sports detailing and modern fabric mixes

Many traditional luxury menswear brands have fallen into that trap of trying to draw attention to themselves, the brand and the product and it risks alienating its core group and those who can really afford it. Just look at the new Brioni or Zegna’s, now, defunct Couture line. They are all chasing the same customers and these men are picky and know exactly what they want.

Well, I’m introducing, Helbers, a new label of luxury menswear staples from Dutch designer, Paul Helbers. When I first saw this, in the Spring, it was the attention to detail and quality which you could instantly see, and that was just the branded hangers!

menswear brand to know paul helbersYou may have heard of Helbers before from his time in charge of Louis Vuitton’s men’s under Marc Jacobs from 2006 to 2011. A graduate of the Royal College of Art, he has also worked at Maison Margiela. 

AW16 is his first collection and I would describe it as Jil Sander meets Neil Barrett. Made in Italy, mostly near Venice, it is a small selection of classic and pure menswear pieces with athletic elements and fabric mixes. It is pricey, but I think this is a brand designed to complement the wearer rather than dominate.

Right - Helbers - Grey Slim-Fit Unstructured Cotton, Alpaca & Wool Blend Jersey Blazer - £1240

Available at MRPORTER.COM & matchesfashion.com

Published in The Fashion Archives
Friday, 26 June 2015 13:56

TheChicGeek’s Milan SS16 Scrapbook

Gucci menswear chinoiserie ss16 geekdolce & gabbana menswear chinoiserie chinese ss16chinese menswear dolce & gabbanaMilan is home to many of fashion's megabrands. This powerhouse is full of the commercial sex appeal we've come to expect from the home of Italian fashion. TheChicGeek casts his expert eye over the details and trends worth coveting:

Chinoiserie

It could have something to do with the recent MET exhibition in New York, or simply the cycle of Chinese influence is coming around for another season, but look out for Mao collars and delicate Chinese decoration in relaxed, voluminous shapes.

From Left - Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Dolce & Gabbana

Nightwear

Step straight out of bed, or straight in, depending on timings, with the new dressing gown type coats and pyjama shirts.

Below - Both - Bally

menswear bally spring summer 2016 pyjamabally menswear spring 2016 milan dressing gown

menswear milan trends ferragamo lines distortionmilan menswear trends 2016 ferragamomenswear trends the chic geek MGSM milan spring 2016Distortion

No, you're not seeing things. Colour and pattern are stylishly distorted to make the wearer standout while confusingly blending in.

From Left - Salvatore Ferragamo, Salvatore Ferragamo, MGSM

Longline

Call it ethnic or ASOS!, everything is untucked and in a longer length. Just be careful when wearing with shorts.

Below - Both - Versace

menswear versace longline spring 2016milan trends menswear the chic geek spring 2016 versace

menswear trends ss16 jil sandermenswear trends ss16 prada technicalTechnical

Comfort seems to be the key for technical fabrics today: a new ease of movement and travel focused.

From Left - Jil Sander, Prada

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

denim menswear trend calvin klein ss 16menswear trends milan spring summer 2016calvin klein denim menswear trends milanports 1961 menswear trends 2015Denim

Shake that money maker! The money spinner for the majority of major fashion brands, it appears on the catwalk in recognition of the part it has played in creating these brands and the fashion landscape today.

From Left - Calvin Klein, Ports 1961, Calvin Klein, Ports 1961 

  

 

 

 

 

 

menswear trends birds guccimenswear trends milan spring summer 2016 ports 1961bird trend menswear dolce & gabbanaBirds

Not so much Hitchcock as Attenborough with parrots to hummingbirds seen on the chests of menswear from Milan.

From Left - Gucci, Ports 1961, Dolce & Gabbana

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

lace menswear trend No.21gucci lace menswear s16 the chic geekSS16 menswear trends milan gucci laceLace

I can see right through this trend which was first seen in London.

From Left - No.21, Gucci, Gucci

gucci leather coat menswear s16Patchwork

Just because - The new Gucci is slightly mental - good mental - in a Fight Club meets Peter Sellers kinda way. Love this dressing up box style.

Left - Gucci

 

 

Published in The Fashion Archives

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