Displaying items by tag: LCM

Chic Geek comment on the state of menswear & LFWMLondon’s men’s fashion week got its Ronseal title, this season, replacing the old London Collections: Men moniker. The change didn’t make any difference to the lack of content and money, unfortunately, but, hopefully, it meant more to the wider public with many still not realising there even was a men’s fashion week in London.

Left - Daniel W Fletcher Presentation

London and Britain, is good at fashion, we’re good at menswear, we should celebrate it and this is the event to do that at. Twice a year, we come together, test the temperature of the industry and move forward in the way fashion always does. There will always be ups and downs and better and worse seasons, but ultimately it’s big business, from luxury to high-street, and we’re one of the best at it. Let’s champion that.

LFWM is just more pointless than previously, yet still necessary. It needs to be done, otherwise other cities will take the focus away from London and London needs to seen as a centre of ideas and fashion. 

When we leave Europe, the British Fashion Council need to lobby the government for more funding for an industry that employs so many people and encourages people to visit and shop in the UK. If we’re going to build a successful post-European future we need to focus on areas we are good at. Creativity is one of those areas. Fashion links many of these together and is the energy and catalyst for newness.

When then pedestrianise Oxford Street, fashion weeks should move there into see-through marquees and become inclusive to those interested in it and bankrolling it on the pavements either side.

What’s the opposite to ‘having a moment’? Because this is what menswear is currently facing. It’s not solely a London problem, affecting all the main fashion cities, but as fashion is a business, when it needs to change and save money, things get cut.

There was lots of talk during LFWM about whether this would be the last one, but I think if it was going to disappear it would have done so this season. The doom and gloom of the last LC:M was replaced with an optimism that things can only get better and the acceptance that those big brands, now missing, are gone. It’s okay, nobody died.

This was a medicated fashion week. A fashion week on Prozac. Things weren’t as important as before, so it felt more democratic. The must-have tickets didn’t exist so people were more equal than ever. The have and have-nots of fashion weren’t as separate and it felt more inclusive and less frantic.

One of the problems I have it predictablity. Designers showing exactly what you think they’re going to show. They don’t move their collections on. I don’t expect a 180 u-turn every season, but as nobody is really buying anything anyway what do they have to lose? They just make you wonder why you turned up. A signature style is fine, but a designer known for tasteful newness will always excel.

Another, is this idea that fashion collections look a certain way. It’s all a bit graduate Fashion Scout,  and was new sometime in the Thatcher era. The bong-bong-bong music and po-faced press releases suck the life out of the spectacle and the audience and has the bullshit detector on max. Fashion always needs its wanky, taking-itself-too-seriously label, I get that, but there’s only so much eye rolling one can do.

So, let’s think positive. When things hit rock bottom things can only go up. This half glass full attitude to men’s is what will keep it going. Those big brands disappearing will create room for something new: a vacuum for the future. The future is close, we just need to entertain ourselves until it arrives.

Published in The Fashion Archives

The first day of LCM, London's men's fashion week, started. At the end of a long day TheChicGeek's thoughts about the menswear business at the moment and how we need to move away from 'Instagram' fashion and get back to the fundamentals of design.

Published in The Fashion Archives
Thursday, 09 June 2016 10:18

How To Punk (Bleach) Your Denim Jeans

gucci punk denim jeansmenswear cruise 17 gucci punk jeansIf you’ve been taking notes from the latest men’s collection from Gucci, Cruise ’17 to be precise, you’ll have seen that they’ve looked to Britain and our anarchic past and created classically punked denim.

Both - Gucci Cruise '17

I’ve been tempted to bleach some jeans for a while now, ever since a splash back, while cleaning, left an interesting finish. 

Below - An original skinhead

punk denim jeans how to

tester denimhow to create bleached jeans menswearHere's how:

Take a pair of jeans that have been languishing at the back of the wardrobe. Look for something slim or tapered. Make it a pair you were going to chuck out, so you’ve got nothing to lose if you don’t like the finish.

Left - Test the bleach on a pair of unwanted jeans so you get an idea of the finish

Don’t use your favourite pair of jeans. Look for a pair where you like the fit, but not the wash or colour.

Left - Stuff the legs with newspaper to control the bleach to one side of the jeans

I’ve gone for an old pair of Lee 101s which have braces attached which only adds to the skinhead look. Im taking the braces off before I start as I don’t want these splattered with bleach.

 

 

group punks the chic geekGet some standard household bleach. You can wear gloves if you prefer.

Lie the jeans out flat in the bath tub or shower tray or do outside. Stuff the legs with newspaper to control the bleach to one side. 

Left - Mohicans are optional!

how to bleach your jeanshow to create bleacher jeans the chic geekPretend you're Jackson Pollock and liberally drip the bleach over the jeans.

Left - Use standard household bleach

Let the jeans dry, best left overnight, then do the same on the other side.

Right - The bleach will look a bit green, but don't worry, it's working its punk magic!

Use a bucket to rinse or throw into the washing machine.

If you want a stronger contrast you can use the bleach directly. For something more subtle you can dilute the bleach with water and apply with a sponge.

the chic geek skinhead on washing line jeansThe longer you leave on the bleach the whiter/lighter it will become. 

Left - Hang the jeans on the washing line to dry

washing bleached jeansIt will look a bit sludgy green as though it has been attacked by Slimmer from Ghostbusters. Don’t PANIC. It gets worse before it gets better.

Left - When you've done both sides put them on a cold rinse in the washing machine

Below - Skinhead Geek! You can opt classic skinhead with a Brutus shirt or, maybe, a Fred Perry polo shirt and Dr Martens or you can take inspiration from the Gucci show abovethe chic geek punk jeans how to

skinhead geek punkthe chic geek punk blogger style menswearpress wwd the chic geek bleached jeansLeft - TheChicGeek practising what he preaches and making WWD's street style pictures during LCM 

Published in How To
Monday, 22 February 2016 11:39

London AW16 Menswear Trends Scrapbook

menswear trends aw16 craig green coppermenswear trends aw16 katie eary copper colourmenswear trends aw 16 Topman Design copper colourmenswear trends aw 16 oliver spencer copper colourFrom the frow to standing at the back! TheChicGeek was all over the recent menswear shows at London Collections: Men. Here are the trends that caught his eye:

Copper - That highlight orange has become slightly dirtier and more grown up.

From Far Left - Craig Green, Katie Eary, Hopman Design, Oliver Spencer

  

 

  

menswear trends aw 16 topman design grungemenswear trends aw16 burberry grungemenswear trends grunge aw16 jw andersonGrunge - Nobody’s ever made money from selling grunge, it’s kind of the point, no?

From Far Left - Topman Design, Burberry, J.W. Anderson

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

menswear trends aw 16 neck scarves margaret howell menswear trends aw 16 margaret howell neck scarvesNeck Scarves - Double knot it for accessory impact.

Both Margaret Howell

Soft 70s Teddy Bear Hair - Layers, Bowl Cut, or simply ask for an 'Abigail's Party' next time you're at the barbers.

Below From Left - Lou Dalton, Burberry

menswear trends aw 16 lou dalton seventies hairaw 16 menswear trends burberry 70s hair

menswear trends aw16 agi & sam midriffmenswear trends aw 16 astrid andersen midriffCropped Mid-Driff - Not since Mark Owen in the Relight My Fire Video have I been this excited about the male midriff. AW16's new, chilly erogenous zone!

From Far Left - Agi & Sam, Astrid Andersen

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

menswear trends aw16 coach sheepskinmenswear trends aw 16 inside out sheepskin james longmenswear trends aw 16 1205 sheepskin coatInside Out Sheepskins - You could just turn last year's inside out, but it probably won't look as good!

From Far Left - Coach, James Long, 1205

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

menswear trends aw 16 sequins burberrymenswear trends aw 16 james long sequinsSequins - These were dress-down sequins on sportswear and simple tops.

Burberry, James Long

Silk - Menswear bedroom eyes with luxurious plain or printed silks in bedroom shapes.

Below - Katie Eary, Topman Design

menswear trends katie easy silk aw16menswear trends silk aw 16 topman design

Published in The Fashion Archives
Monday, 08 February 2016 11:12

LC:M Best In Show Grace Wales Bonner

best menswear show lcm the chic geek grace wales bonnergrace wales bonner best show lcm the chic geekA moment. The objective of a fashion show is to convincingly transport the viewer, albeit for a few short minutes, to the place that illustrates everything you want to say about your collection. Recent Central St. Martins graduate, Grace Wales Bonner's journey started the second the African harp began to strum and out strode the models, with glistening faces, in looks that could only be described as somewhere between colonial Africa, the 1970s and modern streetwear.

Featured as part of the Topman sponsored MAN show, during LC:M, Wales Bonner's collection was a beaming dose of heat that brought to mind those sepia style, sunday best pictures of the British Empire. Somewhere in downtown Lagos, circa 1948, somebody was posing with a brass pot plant and portrait of the Queen.

The model's waxed faces made them appear preserved and other worldly, while the clothes were wide and slim in a way only the 1970s can do. Surprisingly fresh and contemporary, tracksuits were delicately decorated with jewels which spoke of her reference highlights and not an obvious note of wealth or bling. But, regardless of the references it looked cool, and that's ultimately what good fashion is.

The standout show of LC:M, for me, Grace Wales Bonner, gave us a perfectly formed escape for a couple of minutes. I can't wait to see what she can give us with a full collection. Roll on SS17.

best menswear show aw16 man top man the chic geekgrace wales bonner aw 16 1970s coat the chic geek

Published in The Fashion Archives

TheChicGeek is very excited to announce his London Collections: Men #LCM social media takeover of great British men’s brand, Jigsaw Menswear.  Follow everything he gets up to during London’s Men’s Fashion Week, wearing Jigsaw Menswear throughout. Check out the stylish new collection here 

Plus an extra special ChicGeek installation is taking place over the weekend in their flagship Duke Street Emporium in London’s Mayfair. Your eyes definitely aren’t deceiving you! Come down and check out what TheChicGeek is wearing from Jigsaw Menswear’s new SS16 collection plus get a #selfie with one of the many ChicGeeks.

Follow TheChicGeek during #LCM on Twitter & Instagram @thechicgeekcouk

Published in The Fashion Archives
Thursday, 25 June 2015 10:54

LC:M Best In Show - Lou Dalton

Lou Dalton London MenswearLC:M hit a milestone, this season, when MAN turned 10 years old. What was a day, then, tagged onto the end of women's fashion week, has spawned into the LC:M menswear showcase we have today.

One of the few designers there from the start or thereabouts was Lou Dalton. While I've often been frustrated about the inconsistencies of her shows, this season, it felt like a shift change. While the music - Joe Smooth's Promised Land #tune - cited a 90s influence it was much cleaner than that. I know she's spent some time with Cerruti, recently, and it seems some of that Italian polish has rubbed off onto her own collection.

This is exactly what men want NOW: sporty, practical, colourful, chic and fresh. Men want to be liberated away from their totes and phones yet still carry whatever they need with them. Lou Dalton made a feature of these practical concerns with large, multiple pockets overblown onto the sides of jackets, trousers and shorts.

The new hands-free male wants to travel light while being prepared for everything. Gone are the frivolities of menswear to be replaced by this dressed sports aesthetic. The peacock is long dead and it's now about blending into the background, well, for a few seasons at least! This was a collection of desirable pieces which worked individually or all together and would seamlessly fit into any contemporary man's wardrobe. 

The colour palette of orange, light blue and white, featuring a distorted gingham and multiple layers, gave it an innocence. It felt of summer, but would work just as well under the grey skies of Manchester. The best menswear is one which feels ageless, meaning any man could wear it. Linked by a modern attitude, these are the guys who look timeless yet change all the time. Lou Dalton defined this man for SS16

With thanks to Smart ForFour

Left & Below - Lou Dalton SS16

Best menswear the chic geek lou dalton

Published in The Fashion Archives
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Thursday, 25 June 2015 08:43

TheChicGeek’s London SS16 Scrapbook

Lou Dalton menswear 2016 springHardy Amies spring 2016 menswearThe home of TheChicGeek and menswear, London was a four day spectacular of the creative East London meeting the more refined West. Here is TheChicGeek’s scrapbook of men's trends for #SS16:

Exterior Pockets

Designers have realised that we no longer want to be handicapped by our manbags while we still have the issue of having many additional things to carry. So, why not make a feature of your bulging pockets?

From Left - Lou Dalton, Hardy Amies 

Hardy Amies neon trend menswearTopman Design neon trendNeon

Men have become so brave, today, with colour that neon is no longer the scary super tone it used to be. More of an accent, think of it like your wardrobe highlighter.

From Left - Hardy Amies, Topman Design

 

 

 

 

 

 

Topman Design menswear trends SS16Agi & Sam menswear London trendsBlurred Lines

Horizontal, vertical, anyway you like. It may look a little 'Inmate Chic', but, hey, it's all about the swagger.

From Left - Topman Design, Agi & Sam

Oliver Spencer SS16 suede jacketGieves & Hawkes suede jacket SS16Summer Suede

The luxury item of SS16. This season, suede is a hybrid between a shirt and a jacket. Just make sure it's in the softest, butteriest suede in an earthy reddy brown tone.

From Left - Oliver Spencer, Gieves & Hawkes

 

 

 

 

 

 

Burberry Prorsum menswear lace trendMenswear Burberry menswear SS16 trendsMace

Male lace or 'Mace' can be as dangerous as it sounds. It's probably best layered with glimpses, rather than full on out there, unless you're as a skinny as a Burberry model.

Left - Both Burberry Prorsum

Coach menswear LCM SS16 animal printsBurberry Prorsum animal prints menswearAnimal Highlights

Yabba dabba doo or don't depending on how you feel about animal prints. These should look like fun animals: the kind you'd win at the fair!

From Left - Coach, Burberry Prorsum

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dunhill new suit greenTopman Design new suit New Suit

I always feel Winston Churchill's boiler suit inspires these kind of bomber/Harrington type suits. The new dress down dress up for those wanting to look put together while looking young, sporty and contemporary.

From Left - Dunhill, Topman Design

Alexander McQueen menswear pyjama colour SS16Hardy Amies menswear SS16 trends pyjama collarPyjama Collar

Peter Pan, Princess or plain old PJ, the shirt colour is light, relaxed and open for the forthcoming SS16 season.

From Left - Alexander McQueen, Hardy Amies

With thanks to Smart ForFour

Published in The Fashion Archives

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