Displaying items by tag: Orris

Friday, 21 February 2020 12:10

Label To Know Gallivant Perfumes

Review 
Gallivant Perfumes Tokyo tried testedA new indie perfume brand from London, founded and created by Nick Steward, Gallivant works in collaboration with perfumers in Venice and Paris. The collection of eight hand-crafted fragrances, named after some of the world’s most vibrant cities, are designed to be travel-friendly with 30ml sized bottles, perfect for slipping into your holdall. 

Nick Steward has two decades of hands-on experience in perfume making and was product and creative director of the pioneering niche house L’Artisan Parfumeur.

Handmade in the UK, unisex, vegan and cruelty-free. Gallivant is an ethical and sustainable independent artisan business. 

Left - Gallivant Perfumes - 30ml Eau de Parfum - £65

TheChicGeek says, “The Phileas Fogg of perfume, Nick Seward, has produced a travelogue of scent. From Tel Aviv to Brooklyn, each fragrance is a modern take on a place memory. 

I was hoping ‘London’ was going to smell like the inside of a red telephone box. Ewww!

If I had to pick a favourite, I would say ‘Tokyo’. Created with Nicolas Bonneville, it is a zingy, spicy, wood. A citrusy head of bergamot and yuzu with black pepper and cardamom, is electrified with a dash of wasabi. A woody heart of hinoki, cedarwood, and incense with orris root, rose and nutmeg mixes with a base of amber, sandalwood, patchouli and vetiver.

Tokyo has a slightly treacly cola top with an aquatic freshness. The warmed incense is there, but it’s deep and kept light with the fruit.”

BUY TheChicGeek's new book - FASHIONWANKERS - HERE

Disclosure - A sample was gifted by Gallivant for review

Published in Grooming
Friday, 22 November 2019 15:58

Tried & Tested Parterre The Hour of Dusk & Gold

Review 
fragrance Parterre The Hour of Dusk & Gold tried testedInspired by the warmth of a Moroccan evening, the fusion of spices coming from the medina and the hues of the setting sun over the ocean viewed from the rooftops of the Essaouira, The Hour of Dusk & Gold is the latest fragrance from British brand, Parterre. Persian wild carrot seed and angelica root grown of Keyneston Mill, are embellished with orris and a swirl of nutmeg, lavender, and bay.

Left - Parterre - The Hour of Dusk & Gold - 50ml - £95

TheChicGeek says, “Parterre launched two year’s ago with the ambition of turning a corner of Dorset into Britain’s answer to Grasse - See Label To Know - Parterre from TheChicGeek archive - here I wanted to see how they were getting on. Like I said to the founders, Julia and David, when people planted vineyards in England, decades ago, people scoffed, and the same could be said for this idea. As the climate changes, this could become a leader in this field for UK grown fragrance ingredients.

While the fragrances aren’t 100% UK grown, this new scent does includes carrot seed and angelica root from their farm.

This is lightly spiced and it has that attractive warm and dry sensation from the carrot seed. The iris orris root always enhances and gives depth to the other notes, but nothing sticks its head out here as individual notes. As a fragrance is it wearable while offering something different without trying too hard, but I do think it’s important to give fragrances more simpler and memorable names."

BUY TheChicGeek's new book - FASHIONWANKERS - HERE

Published in Grooming
Wednesday, 27 March 2019 16:55

Tried & Tested Bentley Beyond

Review 
Bentley Beyond fragrance perfume tried testedThe new “Bentley Beyond - The Collection” from Bentley Fragrances is their first collection of exclusive unisex scents featuring three evocative olfactory journeys, matching peerless ingredients with exotic destinations. A trip to Acapulco, Mexico, with Exotic Musk, an ambery musky composition by Mathilde Bijaoui, a voyage to Goa, India, with Majestic Cashmere, a woody fragrance by Julie Massé and an odyssey in Java, Indonesia, with Wild Vetiver, an aromatic woody scent by Sidonie Lancesseur.

Left - Bentley - Beyond - 100ml - £165

The fragrances, housed in a beautiful faceted flacon inspired by the signature cut-crystal glass headlights of the Continental GT, will be available from Harrods and Lalique boutiques (Conduit Street and Burlington Arcade).

TheChicGeek says, "Finally, a car company doing fragrances which reflect the quality of their cars. This is no longer asking people to buy into aspiration - the fragrance equivalent of a branded keyring - this is a realistic vision of the same person buying their cars actually wearing the fragrance. Man or woman. 

The Wild Vetiver is fresher than a normal vetiver, without that dirty, soily undercurrent, the Majestic Cashmere has that favourite orris on soft, warm cashmere wood and the Exotic Musk has an aquatic edge with a refreshing velvety coolness.

These are three quality fragrances and are very easy to wear. So easy, in fact, they aren't very memorable. These don't shout, which could be part of their attraction, but they don't disappoint and feel as classic and understated as a neutral coloured Bentley Continental." 

Disclosure - The products were gifted by Bentley to review

Published in Grooming
Thursday, 13 April 2017 13:41

Tried & Tested Ermenegildo Zegna Acqua Di Iris

Men's Fragrance Review Ermengildo Zegna Acqua Di IrisErmengildo Zegna’s Acqua Di Iris takes on a splashy transparency from the high-quality, citrus freshness of Zegna Bergamot - they grow their own - and dewy violet leaves. Elements of spice serve to drive the immediacy of the signature and invigorate the top. Sleek woods and cistus labdanum absolute power the signature with strength in order to zero in on the iris’ masculine heart. All are lightly softened by musk. 

TheChicGeek says, “When I first saw ‘Iris’ on the label I was pleased as these is one of my favourite ingredients. Often called orris and derived from the root of the iris, it is mega expensive and as such is very much prized in perfumery. It’s also very Italian, which works with a brand like Zegna. 

Orris is said to smell like violets and this is where I have the problem. By adding violet leaves they are taking the fragrance in that direction and it’s too dominant. The woods and musk softens it, but ultimately reminds me that Zegna also do a fragrance called ‘Florentine Iris’, in their pricier Essenze Collection, which I prefer”.

Left - Ermenegildo Zegna - Acqua Di Iris - 100ml - £82 Exclusive to John Lewis

Published in The Grooming Archives
Friday, 31 March 2017 17:54

Tried & Tested Michael Kors Extreme Night

Review Michael Kors Extreme Night for MenMr rose gold himself, Michael Kors, has been the billion dollar unicorn of the fashion industry with his ubiquitous bags and watches. His menswear has never really gained much traction, but his fragrances have always been pretty reliable. This is packaged as before, but in a blue colourway.

It opens with black pepper and nutmeg, then a middle of cypress and clary sage and, finally, a base of orris and tonka bean.

TheChicGeek says, “I must be getting old because I can’t remember the last time I had an ‘Extreme Night’. I think Michael Kors' idea of an extreme night out might be a bit more glamorous than ours. 

The first thought I had when I smelt this was tonka bean. It does revolve around this, but has a soft aromatic quality which is fresh and green and smells cooling. Fans of Jean Paul Gaultier’s Le Male will like this”. 

Left - Michael Kors Extreme Night For Men - 120ml - £70

Published in The Grooming Archives
Wednesday, 09 December 2015 14:57

Tried & Tested - Jo Malone Orris & Sandalwood

review jo malone orris sandalwood the chic geekPart of Jo Malone’s Cologne Intense range, Orris & Sandalwood, centres around orris, the name for the dried root of the iris. One of the most expensive ingredients in perfumery it is grown in Tuscany and takes many years to dry out. 

Here it is combined her with top notes of violet, and a base of sandalwood.

TheChicGeek says, “This is the dirty side of orris. The initial burst of fragrant violet doesn’t stop this from quickly drying down to an earthy, woody and almost animalic base. This would appeal to those fans of oud or incense type fragrances. It has a strong beginning which does lighten with time”.

Left - Jo Malone - Cologne Intense - 100ml - £105

Published in The Grooming Archives

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