Part of the Topman sponsored ‘MAN’ show, Stefan Cooke, in his second outing here, went from his super-tight, Gaultier style AW18 season to something, while still fitted, that played with hype-colour tartans, half ruffs on the necks and small mirrors dotted randomly across the pieces. Winner of the H&M designer prize in 2017, Cooke, from the UK, is a designer to continue watching.
Part of the BFC showrooms and also with a presentation at Charing Cross Library, Bethany Williams took inspiration from all those books and book binding and managed to thread real, physical paperbacks into her SS19 collection. Working with The Quaker Mobile Library, which lend books to people with no fixed address, her collection showed the hand-ons, painstaking craft element to fashion.
Mullins is on a roll. His AW18 collection was one of the best of the season and, this, the new SS19, had plenty of ideas to keep you wanting more. Standouts include rock shaped portfolio bags and asymmetric slashed shirts showing just a glimpse of the shoulder. 2019, the year of the male shoulder, maybe?!
Day - What Did TheChicGeek wear? Credits - Suit - Arket, T-Shirt - Oiboy, Cap - Arc'Teryx, Sunglasses - Illesteva
If expensive looking black bin bags are your thing, then Berthold could be the place to look. I’m just joking, but the fascination with anything black and shiny seems to be taking hold within menswear and Raimund Berthold is running with it. He showed plenty for AW18 and, now, this was the summer version. Think parachute light black coats and matching accessorises in a sport-luxe - there, I said it! - collection for those who like fashion as uniform.
Martine Rose took us to Norf London, St Leonards Square in NW5 to be exact, which looked perfect for street parties and carnivals. This was working class Victorian square with no fancy greenery in the middle, no even Albert Square sized.
The catwalk was the road and the neighbours looked on, perched on their front garden walls or down quizzically from an upstairs window while doing the tea-time washing up.
This was the show of the week for a designer that waited for fashion to come to them. Now, with her own label and working on Balenciaga’s menswear, Rose has become a chief exponent of fashion’s obsession with bad taste.
There was plenty here, but it’s done in a way that’s still desirable. How much it has left to run is anybody’s guess, but I don’t think the retailers are getting bored. I saw a new ‘hybrid’ - because we all love one of those - a half-jean, half-trackie trouser - rodeo at the front, scally at the back!
Rose’s 90s ‘Geezer’ was going out, out; clear plastic trousers, squared-toed snakeskin chain loafers with no backs and Motorcross trousers with loud taping will definitely get you noticed. This was ‘Out-On-The-Tann’ man, probably down to his local boozer, looking to impress and living it up with gold chains, tucked in shirts and smart-ish shoes. I still want in.
Evening - What Did TheChicGeek wear? Credits - Suit - Pretty Green, Shirt - ASOS, Sunglasses - Kaleos, Shoes - Vintage Alexander McQueen
See LFWM Day 1 - here
See LFWM Day 2 - here
David Morris, Senior Footwear Buyer, MRPORTER.COM
“Takahiromiyashita TheSoloist offers exceptional fits and expert attention to detail, and this cardigan is the perfect example. It’s been intarsia-knitted in Japan from smooth silk in a monochrome palette meaning it can be layered or worn with just a t-shirt - a versatile SS18 piece.”
Left - Takahiromiyashita TheSoloist - Slim-Fit Argyle Silk Zip-Up Cardigan - £1365
“Arc’teryx are specialists in performance clothing without the compromise in aesthetics and this shell coat from their ‘Veilance' line is the perfect lightweight spring addition. Made in Canada, it is water and wind-resistant to see you through spring’s tempestuous weather and if the sun does decide to appear you can simply fold it into its own internal pocket.”
Left - Arc’teryx - Veilance Monitor SL Packable Water-Resistant Shell Coat - £560
“Nothing gets you excited for summer more than a new pair of sunglasses and this handmade, round frame pair by Cutler And Gross are in my wish list. They have a timeless appeal which will leave you sipping pina coladas in style.”
Below - Cutler And Gross - Round-Frame Acetate Sunglasses - £310
“Sandals are key trend for SS18, these from Prada are amongst my favourites which we have to offer at MR PORTER. Made from durable black webbing on a contoured leather insole, these will look great with either a smart slim pair of trousers or a pair of well-fitting shorts.”
Left - Prada - Leather Trimmed Webbing Sandals - £415
“This Our Legacy silk yellow shirt has been dyed to give it a washed out, lived in feel, another key trend for SS18. It’s my top pick to master understated style for the warmer months ahead.”
Left - Our Legacy - New Silk Shirt - £190
Every man should be buying a silk shirt this season, read more why here
Benn McGregor, Mens Contemporary, Sneakers and Lifestyle Buyer, Harvey Nichols
“This coat by Our Legacy is an absolute wardrobe staple. With the shape being both boxy and masculine it is a great fit for any shape. Although the pocket placement on the front looks incredibly standard, it’s actually quite rare to find a modern knee-length coat that has a formal look, but also have these casual pockets; it brings a whole new relaxed angle to the product when you’re wearing it”.
Left - Our Legacy at Harvey Nichols - Black Virgin Wool Blend Coat - £570
"Athletic Propulsion Labs, or ‘APL’ as they’re more swiftly known, are rising stars in the footwear world. Their knitted runner silhouette is an absolute must this season for both runners and gym-frequenters, but also just as easy to wear with a pair of jeans. APL aren’t big on branding, and the minimalist aesthetic is echoed in the colour palette; available in a wide range of subtle fashion colours it’s an easy win when you want to have comfort, but still keep an element of sophistication about your footwear”.
Left - Athletic Propulsion Labs at Harvey Nichols – TechLoom Pro Black Knitted Trainers - £110
“Although my pick is for AW16, this pink Stone Island light pint wool blend jumper will both keep you warm and keep you on point and ahead of the game for SS17 where pink will be a key colour for the season”.
Left - Stone Island at Harvey Nichols – Light Pink Wool Blend Jumper - £175 (One of the must-have items of the season - more here)
"Water resistant, articulated cut and the stretch fabric makes these Arc’Teryx Veilance trousers an absolute winner for the young professional, especially in the autumn/winter months. These trousers are cut like a slim leg style, but offer a roomy fit around the thigh ensuring maximum comfort whilst being a good investment piece. The structure of these trousers will allow them to retain their shape and colour due to the technical fabric and fit superiority”.
Left - Arc’Teryx Veilance at Harvey Nichols – Apparent Black Cotton Blend Trousers - £350
Whilst I am aware that this isn’t a ‘product’ pick per se, no matter what you buy, if you haven’t got a sharp haircut, the rest of your style is thrown off balance. Therefore, a visit to the AONO barbershop in our newly renovated menswear department in the Knightsbridge store is a must. Praised for their attention to detail and great price point of £30, you will struggle to find a better service at a better price inside the M25”.
Below - AONO Barbershop at Harvey Nichols