The Berlin trade shows are a decent barometer of Northern Europe’s fashion direction. While not known for being particularly experimental or distinctive markets, it’s a good point to see what is selling in more mainstream menswear, post Pitti Uomo, from larger and smaller brands alike. Here are the menswear trends, brands and collabs. to take note of for SS20 from Berlin:
The Branded Utility Sandal
Lead by Teva, with touches of the Japanese, Suicoke, the activity, utility or trekking sandal - take your pick - is replacing the slide as the cool summer men’s footwear of choice. This geeky style was championed by many brands including Hunter, Slydes and Hi-Tec; all showing their own versions of these sandals which require some serious foot game in the pedicure/foot maintenance department.
Far Left - Hunter
Left - Slydes
Right - Hi-Tec
This was a trend first seen at Pitti Uomo. Transparent ripstop nylon used in the main body of the shoe allowing see-through and visible sections throughout. Not sure whether you’re supposed to wear with or without socks?
Right - D.A.T.E.
The Ukrainian capital, Kiev, is fast becoming a hot spot of creativity. Brands such as ‘Deep Naked Denim’ with their hoodies with additional arms to tie around the waist and revealing jeans and ‘Keep’, an accessorise brand using paper-like materials which you can self graffiti and customise are drawing attention to this part of Eastern Europe.
Left - Deep Naked Denim
Right - Keep
Baggy Trousers (Jeans)
We’ve been waiting with baited breath for a new style of jean that will resonate with the mass men’s audience. Enter the baggy 90s jean last seen on Marky Mark.
Lead by Pelle Pelle, an american brand founded in 1978 and now being designed and handled in Denmark, who prides themselves with having been the first urban brand to intentionally design and release the baggy denim pant worn by the stars of 90s hip-hop.
Unfeigned, a Spanish menswear brand, featured higher waisted denim with deep side pockets following this looser aesthetic.
Left - Pelle Pelle
Right - Unfeigned
You’ve got to give this Korean brand credit - pardon the pun! - APRVD says it “secures a wearable aesthetic that combines the utilitarian energy of street style with an artistic spirit upholding the highly qualified production experiences over the decades.” No, me neither, but its play on credit card design is priceless! Soz.
Following on from the Paris Trade Shows - see more here the linen shirt continues to segue itself back into fashion. These colourful shirts, some with matching scarves, are made in Italy by Destin and retail for around €90.
A private label manufacturer and a Portuguese take on a helvetica shoe brand, Perks’ parent company Evereste is 75 years old. This family business is branching out with this, their own label, showcasing their quality sports shoes and smarter leather shoes all proudly made in Portugal.
A young Danish menswear label, ISNURH is a Copenhagen-based menswear brand with a detail-driven approach. The founders, Kasper and Oliver, have created not only a ready-to-wear label collections, but also collaborations with different artists, and bespoke garments made in a tunnel located in Silkegade, Copenhagen.
This Swiss skiwear brand returns with its luxe and loud take on 80s style. Originally founded in St. Moritz in 1969, and now under the creative direction of Michael Michalsky, JET SET’s new logo is comprised of letters in a dynamic contemporary font set against an angular orange-and-black placard and references the label’s Swiss-German heritage in a bold and confident colourway.
LION BRAND SPORTSWEAR
Move over preppy Polo Bear, the abbreviated LBSW, founded in the USA in 1954 by Antonio Rosenbaum, is inspired by ‘Ivy League’ sporting competitions. The original LionBrandSportsWear supplied not only casual wear but also sports equipment for these Ivy League athletes.
After more than 65 years, and now owned by Bastiaan Roessen and based in the Netherlands, LBSW is being relaunched by introducing “'The 1954 Polo Shirt’. This authentic slim fitted polo shirt from 1954 is made from 100% piqué cotton and signed with their embroidered Lion logo.
LEE 101 X TIMBERLAND
While both originally part of the giant VF Corporation group of brands, though Lee has been spun out with its other denim cousin, Wrangler, into the Kontoor Brands group, it doesn’t mean they still can’t work together. Timberland’s outdoor, active and environmental credentials has been mixed with Lee’s denim heritage. The result is something fit for the American Frontier both visually and practically.
YMC X FARAH
YMC has worked their usually quirky aesthetic into Farah’s reliable menswear to celebrate the latter's centenary. Lots of colour and things like appliqué stars play with Farah’s American roots. Founded in 1920 in El Paso, Texas, they originally produced chambray work shirts for the cost of 35 cents. Inflation allowing, these fun pieces will still be at Farah’s successfully affordable price points.
See Paris Menswear Trade Shows SS20 - Here
Oh, what a night! TheChicGeek celebrated his 7th birthday in style with ginger themed festivities. Blogging years are a bit like dog years, but he doesn't look a day older than when he started! Seven full-on years have made him into the true chic geek he is today.
Held at the Farah store on Covent Garden's Earlham Street, the great and good of London's fashion crowd came out to wish him 'Happy Birthday'. Here's his scrapbook from the night. (He doesn't remember that much!)
Left - TheChicGeek is ready to get this party started!
Left - Jagermeister & ginger beer kept everybody's thirst quenched
Left - One night only! DJs B&Q
Left - Happy Birthday ChicGeek!! Seven candles for seven blog years.
Left - TheChicGeek's bespoke ginger cake
Right - TheChicGeek doesn't usually eat in public, but he couldn't resist a slice of his ginger birthday cake. Delicious!
TheChicGeek weekly magazine vlog includes celebrating his 7th birthday party with a ginger themed party at the Farah store in Covent Garden plus the new summer rooftop opened at John Lewis, Louis Vuitton has an exhibition running until the middle of June of commissions and objects from their archives, The Perfume Society launched their 'Discovery Box' in time for Father's Day plus a review of Natura Siberica, a grooming range made from ingredients from Siberia. If Vladimir Putin used a grooming range it would be this...
TheChicGeek turns 7, this month, and to celebrate I have joined forces with one of my favourite menswear brands, Farah, for a party at their flagship store. in Earlham Street, Covent Garden.
In the run up to the party, TheChicGeek and Farah will be running a daily competition, for 7 days, to win £200 worth of Farah clothing.
How do I WIN?!!!
All you have to do is visit the store on any of the 7 days (18-24 May), find TheChicGeek’s birthday gift box and have your picture taken with it, posting to Twitter or Instagram, tagging @thechicgeekcouk @farahmenswear and #thechicgeekxfarah for your chance to win.
As well as some great pieces of clothing from Farah, you’ll also win 2 tickets to attend TheChicGeek’s birthday party on the 25 May. Good luck!
* The party is invitation only.
For competition T&Cs visit http://www.farah.co.uk/terms-and-conditions.html
The American pop artist, Andy Warhol, embodies modern male dressing: slim shapes in simple clean lines. The model of the 1960s Beatnik, Warhol, in his early career, liked to stick to his uniform of dark denim, striped Breton tops and leather jackets.
A master of his own image, TheChicGeek couldn't help but try his hand at becoming Andy Warhol, well, for 15 minutes at least!
Credits - Leather Jacket - Acne Studios, Top - Farah, Jeans - Energie, Watch - Fossil, Sunglasses - Balenciaga, Socks - The London Sock Co, Camera - Polaroid Cube, Trainers - Converse, Lip Balm - Bulldog, Charcoal Face Wash - B.Mens, Shave Cream - B.Mens
Shot by Robin Forster on OlympusPEN
With thanks to Sonsoles Print Studio, Peckham
More images below