Is there ever a perfect time to launch anything? Warehouse, the women’s high street brand founded in 1976 by Jeff Banks, is launching menswear this week. The traditional British men’s high-street has been in the doldrums for quite some time since the skinny suit was replaced by the branded tracksuit. So, the question is, does this ambitious new launch signal the start of a potential menswear renaissance or will it be simply too difficult in a segment that has seen other well known high-street brands crash and burn?
Jonathan Munro, Warehouse Menswear designer says, “We feel strongly that there is a gap for a well-designed sustainable brand at a great price point. We wanted to build on the success of the womenswear line, marking a new chapter in the brand’s history and fulfilling what we believe, is a gap in the market.” he says. It is worth noting that this isn’t the first time Warehouse has done menswear. They had menswear in the early days of Warehouse so they are not promoting this as a first.
Left - Warehouse Menswear SS20
The main focus is, the fashion word du jour, sustainable. The new range will be sold online via the Warehouse webstore www.warehouse.co.uk and through host e-tailers and retailers; The Idle Man, Zalando, JohnLewis.com, Next and the Australian retailer Myer. Price points range from £15 for a 100% organic T-shirt, up to £189 for a recycled polyester content suit and £229 for the chrome-free suede jacket.
“The core of the range is made up of high quality wardrobe staples that should last season-after-season, balanced with breathable cottons and linens in a wearable colour palette.” says Munro. “We have a great range of printed shirts, from monochrome geos to abstract hand painted illustrations which are all designed in-house. Key pieces include our heavy twill overshirts and slim utility trousers.” he says.
“Fashion needs to become more sustainable for the good of the planet.” says Munro. “100% of the range includes sustainable fibres such as organic cottons which use less pesticides and therefore less pollutants, recycled polyesters made up from salvaged plastic bottles and eco viscose which is derived from renewable wood sources.”
What will Warehouse Menswear add to the British men’s high-street market? “Sustainable clothing for the modern man who needs his clothes to last and work for him every day.” says Munro. “We know women buy clothes for men and we also know men buy clothes for themselves - it's aimed at whoever wants to buy it.” he says. “We are holding a pop-up store at Protein Studios in Shoreditch, running from the 2nd – 7th March. This is to allow customers to see the range first hand, interacting with the materials and learning more about the sustainability messaging which runs throughout.”
What does the future look like for Warehouse Menswear? “Our main focus will be to continue to research and develop new ways of working with sustainability in mind, supported by the knowledge of what the Warehouse Menswear customer is looking for in a sustainable clothing collection.” says Munro.
Brands such as Whistles and New Look both struggled in the menswear category. Whistles cancelled its menswear range this time last year and New Look removed menswear from its stores in April 2019, going online-only. The rest of the high-street from Topman to River Island to Jigsaw have struggled to compete with Zara and the sports brands. But, things aren’t all doom and gloom, according to a ‘GlobalData’ report ‘The UK Clothing Market 2018 – 2023’, menswear will be the driving force of the clothing sector, forecast to grow by 12.3% over the next five years as greater trend incorporation and newness drives volumes.
A British Fashion Council and Mintel report estimates that consumer spending menswear has grown 5.1% to reach £15.9 billion in 2018. Menswear now accounts for 26% of the total clothing market, whilst womenswear accounts for 51%. Consumer spending on clothing is forecast to rise 25% to £76 billion in the next five years to 2023.
Warehouse’s parent company, the Oasis and Warehouse Group, clearly sees potential in the menswear market having recently purchased online retailer The Idle Man for an undisclosed sum in Sept. 2019.
Right - Warehouse Menswear SS20
So, what do the experts think Warehouse Menswear’s prospects are?
“When this was announced, I’m not going to lie, I was very surprised, to say the least. I understand a lot of people keep on talking about the growth in men’s fashion & grooming, but when we see retailers from New Look to Whistles dropping their menswear offering, it does beg the question, is now the best time to launch a menswear brand extension?
“Additional to this, we have an awful lot of talk on sustainability and buying less but better quality, plus when well known names like TOPMAN are not performing particularly well at the moment, its hard to see a brand not known for their menswear being a success in these difficult, uncertain times. However, maybe this is what the menswear market needs, maybe Warehouse it going to target the ladies buying for their men, but this is an ever increasingly niche demographic. I do wish Warehouse all the luck in the world and hope their Menswear offering is a success, but I won’t be holding my breathe.” says Anthony McGrath, Founder of Clothes-Make-the-Man.com & leading academic.
“It’s certainly a challenging time to launch, but there’s an opportunity for Warehouse where other major high street names are stalling or retracting on menswear. There are multiple challenges for high street retailers; nimble online competition, prohibitive high business rates, persistent economic uncertainty and the fact that many of us no longer choose shopping as a preferable leisure activity. However, in my opinion the current menswear offer from the high street, with a few exceptions, is failing to offer well-made, well priced and exciting product. There’s a proliferation of dull, cheap clothes.
I’d like to see a certain amount of risk taking. Nobody needs another line of neutral, anonymous ‘wardrobe essentials’. Men shop for themselves. It’s not going to work if the strategy is to rely on existing customers.” says Jessica Punter, Stylist & Grooming Consultant, & former GQ Style & Grooming Editor.
“It'll be a tough fight, and depends on their marketing strategy I think. They have a nice campaign video and a pop up shop but is that enough? We'll see. They have an opportunity now to really nail it, to take the market share from the high street brands that don't do it particularly well, but time will tell! I think others failed because they weren't offering a mix of product for different customer groups, so hopefully Warehouse will.
“There isn't a 'good time' to launch I don't think, there's always going to be peaks and troughs in the industry, and right now we're just coming out of a terrible time for retail, so maybe it's a great time! To wait until fashion week or another event is pointless now as we know men don't really shop to seasons or events, they just shop because they need to. I guess it's a good time in the year though, because now is the time for newness, so makes sense from a business point of view.
“Initially, I think it'll be the aimed at the women for sure, because they are the ones going in store and online to buy Warehouse, but if they have a good marketing plan, and get it out to wider audiences, men will slowly show up. Also, I wonder who they are partnering with, if anyone, to wholesale? That'll be really important in pulling in a new menswear customer. It'll be slow, but maybe they might be able to do what others have failed to do!” says Simon Glazin, freelance fashion writer and blogger.
Left - Will it work? Warehouse Menswear SS20
“I think there's space for an affordable, fashion-forward offer now Topman is tussling with Boohoo over cheap sportswear, but Warehouse aren't going to be the ones to provide it. Well, judging from the images I've seen.” says Lee Clatworthy, Fashion Writer.
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Thom Scherdel - Head Buyer at The Idle Man
"Growing from a small workwear to a now global trendsetting brand, Carhartt WIP continues to go from strength to strength. Bridging the gap between workwear and streetwear, Carhartt offers practical yet stylish menswear, as illustrated by the Nimbus Pullover. Made from water repellent teflon and milky coated fabric with warm fleece lining on the inside, this jacket will be able to take whatever the winter weather throws at it."
Left - Carhartt WIP - Nimbus Pullover - £144
"Retro sportswear has really taken off in recent seasons and this winter is no exception. This Fila crewneck sweatshirt is crisp, simple but effective in giving a refined sports vibe. Perfect for a casual outfit in the colder winter days to pair with jeans or chinos."
Left - Fila - Toby Crew Neck Sweatshirt - £64
"Slogan and ironic tees have been becoming increasingly popular as illustrated by Homage Tees retro style t-shirts worn by the likes of ASAP Rocky and Cara Delevigne. The Louis Theroux t-shirt is something a bit different for your outfit and who doesn’t like a bit of Louis?!
Below - Homage Tees - Louis Theroux T-Shirt - £30
"Straight leg trousers are really on trend right now and a simple way to incorporate them into your wardrobe is with chinos. Chinos are very versatile and can be worn with both smart and casual outfits whilst navy is a great winter colour that coordinates easily with other tones."
Left - The Idle Man - Straight Leg Chino - £28
"Originating from Finland, Karhu is a sportswear brand with a strong history and pedigree. Recently sported by Kanye West, these incredibly comfy and durable trainers are a great addition to any wardrobe. The soft pigskin suede is a fantastic detail and adds a premium touch to the plimsolls."
Left - Karhu - Fusion 2.0 Plimsolls Blue - £109
Thom Scherdel, Buyer for THE IDLE MAN
“One of my favourite pieces from our AW debut collection, the Deco Jacquard repeat ends up being quite trippy if you keep staring at it, but is still understated and classy“.
Left - The Idle Man - Deco Jacquard Knitted Jumper - £28
“The quest for the ultimate Biker Jacket is often long and arduous, but as with most things you are looking for they tend to be right in front of you. Established too long ago, it was made famous by Marlon Brando in the 50’s, and then adopted and adored by the punks in the 70s and 80s. The Perfecto has stood the test of time and is the quite simply THE Biker Jacket to own“.
Left - Schott NYC - Perfecto Biker Jacket - £350
“How to make a Classic Herschel Black Backpack better? Add a 3M patch to the back and give it 3M reflective taped seams obviously. We just wanted to make a slightly more functional backpack for all the commuters out there, reducing the size slightly, as to not p*ss people off on the tube and making it a bit more road ready for those 2 wheeled warriors on the morning Tour de London“.
Left - Herschel X The Idle Man - Heritage Mid-Volume Backpack - £55
“There were a few raised eyebrows when this landed on the site, its our most expensive piece to date, but what a jacket this is. With a Fill Power of 700 Goose Down it’s the most you can pack in to ensure insulation and comfort. It's mountain ready, of course, but I went for it because it’s a just an amazing colour way. White is going to be a massive colour for the coming seasons and this is the perfect foray into it. You’ve already got a black coat…”.
Left - The North Face - Kazoo Mountain Jacket - £475
“We are pleased to welcome the Wood Wood crew onto our site for AW, maintaining their street etiquette, but referencing the 70s in just the right way they have some amazing dual inspired products. This classic logo knit is made up fine Merino Wool and a touch on Nylon to give it a unique handle. It's black on the front and white on the back…”.
Left - Wood Wood - Yale Sweater - £110